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Contents Introduction Hvar Town Stari Grad My Other Blogs on Croatia 1. Introduction We have been twice to the island of Hvar and stayed in Hvar Town. Usually we prefer to stay in quieter places. However, we like the vibe of Hvar Town and there is more to see and do than in Stari Grad, which is smaller and laid back. You can base yourself in either of these towns as there is a good air conditioned bus service between Hvar Town and Stari Grad. The buses run from the early morning to late evening and the bus schedules can be found on Buscroatia.com . It is about a 30 minute journey from Hvar Town to Stari Grad and the return bus fare is Eur 9.40. Both towns should definitely be visited. 2. Hvar Town Hvar Town is one of our favourite places in Croatia. It has an unspoilt historic centre and the town is in a beautiful setting. It certainly isn't undiscovered and it is very fashionable with lots of tourists. On our first visit to Hvar Paul Allen's (Microsoft co-founder) Octopus yacht , with 2 mini submarines and 2 helicopter pads, was docked there! 2.1. The Fortress above Hvar Town The main site to visit is the impressive fortress on the hill behind Hvar Town. It is a steep climb up and there are a few places on the way up where you have spectacular views of the town and bay through gaps in the trees. Unfortunately it is very expensive to enter the Fortress. It costs Eur 10 to visit the Fortress and Eur 15 to visit the Fortress, Theatre and Arsenal. We didn't pay to enter and instead sat on one of the benches by the castle walls and enjoyed the great views. It was still worth the hot walk up. 2.2 Hvar Old Town The majority of the historic Hvar Town is between the main square (Trg St Jepana) and the Fortress. It is worthwhile wandering around and exploring all the atmospheric alleyways. The 16th century St Stephen's cathedral is at the eastern end of Hvar's main square near the market and bus station. It is a huge square and we sat by the side of the square to rest and people watch. Hvar's eastern harbour is usually very busy with boats and ferries coming and going. There are a lot of restaurants and cafes on the eastern side. The alley that runs behind this section of harbour is also historic. 2.3. Hvar Town's Seafront Promenade It is a nice walk in both directions along the promenade and there are small private beaches at either end. The beach on the western side looked better, but the sun loungers may be expensive. There was a sign at the eastern beach saying "Sunlounger Eur 25". I hope this price was for 2 sun loungers and an umbrella as otherwise the price is extortionate. 2.4. Water Taxis from Hvar Town to the Pakleni Islands All the ferries dock on the eastern side of the harbour. This is also where the water taxis to the Pakleni islands depart. These water taxis cost Eur 10 return and usually go to 3 of the Pakleni islands; Jerolim, Marinkovac and Sveti Klement. We went to Jerolim as it is a quiet island with a rocky coastline. A lot of naturists go there. 2.5. Food and Drinks in Hvar Town Restaurant meals are no longer excellent value in Croatia and that is certainly the case in Hvar Town. However, there are a number of places selling sandwiches for Eur 6, pizza slices etc and this works out to be a much cheaper option for a quick meal. There are also a couple of small supermarkets on the north side of the main square (Trg St. Jepana). They are very busy with customers buying drinks, snacks and ice creams at reasonable prices. Ice cream parlours in Hvar Town charge Eur 3 per scoop. 2.6. Toilets in Hvar Town There are 2 public toilets in Hvar Town. The best one is near the market opposite St Stephen's Catherdral and they also have a self service laundrette and showers. The toilets are clean and cost Eur 1. There are also toilets where the ferries dock on the eastern side of the bay. They also cost Eur 1 but were dirty. 2.7. Tourist Office & Maps The tourist office is in the south west corner of Hvar's main square. They can give you a map of the town, bus timetables etc. There is also a map of Hvar Town on hvarinfo.com . You have to zoom in to see the details. 3. Stari Grad, Hvar We took a bus from Hvar Town and spent a couple of hours walking around Stari Grad before returning. We got to Stari Grad at lunch time and bought some sandwiches. We ate them in the very pleasant Trg Petar Hektorovic square where the famous Tvrdalj is located. The sandwiches in Stari Grad cost Eur 3, which is much cheaper than in Hvar Town where they cost Eur 6! Stari Grad is so much quieter and laid back than Hvar Town. It is smaller and can easily be seen in 1.5 hours. The old town is on the southern side of the harbour and the hotels are on the northern side. There are rock and concrete "beaches" in front of these hotels. Swimming is apparently better to the west of the old town at the entrance to the bay. There are 2 public toilets in Stari Grad. The best ones are on the harbour at the western end of the old town. I think they are meant for the people on the yachts moored nearby as they have showers. There is an attendant there but they are free and spotless. There are also some more basic toilets near the market at the eastern end of the harbour. There is a map of Stari Grad on hvarinfo.com . You have to zoom in to see the details. 4. My Other Blogs on Croatia Rovinj & Pula, Croatia: Travel Guide Split, Croatia: Travel Guide Trogir, Croatia: Travel Guide Omis, Croatia: Travel Guide Krk Town, Croatia: Travel Guide Brac, Croatia: Travel Guide Rab, Croatia: Travel Guide Montenegro to Croatia- Week 10 Brac to Rab, Croatia - Week 11 Rab to Dolomites, Italy - Week 12

Contents Introduction 28 November 2023 - Pairo to Chyolangpati 29 November 2023 - Chyolangpati to Gosainkund 30 November 2023 - Surya Peak 1 December 2023 - Gosainkund to Ghopte 2 December 2023 - Ghopte to Kutumsang 3 December 2023 - Kutumsang to Chisapani 4 December - Chisapani to Kathmandu Links to Other Blogs on the Langtang, Gosainkunda & Helambu Treks Introduction I spent a week doing the Langtang trek ( click here to see my blogs ). I then continued on to the Gosainkunda and Helambu treks which took that another week. I like longer treks and it made sense to do all 3 of these short treks while I was in the area. I had considered adding on the 5 day Tamang Heritage trail as this links up with the Langtang trek. However, it didn’t appeal to me as it is a low altitude trek and I prefer the alpine scenery at high altitude. I met 2 Canadians who had done this trek and there were huge spiders in a couple of their tea houses. I was glad I didn’t do that trek! I was trekking with Niru who was a 31 year old porter/guide arranged through Enjoy Nepal Treks . He was a good guide and it was enjoyable trekking with him. For information on planning the Gosainkunda and Helambu trek see my blog Planning the Gosainkunda & Helambu Trek . 28 November 2023 - Pairo to Chyolangpati Niru and I set off from Pairo on the Langtang trek at 07.45 and soon reached the junction of the trails for the Langtang and Gosainkunda treks. We turned southwards onto the trail for the Gosainkunda trek and the trail immediately ascended steeply.  After 1.25 hours we reached a suspension bridge and met the first and only other trekker on this quiet trail to Thulo Syabru. It was so different to the busy Langtang trek. This other trekker was a 70 year old Swiss woman who didn’t speak any English and her 50 year old guide. After the end of the trek I sadly learned that the guide was found dead in his room at a tea house at Gosainkunda Lake. After the suspension bridge there was a trail that ascended. Unfortunately that isn’t the trail to Gosainkunda which descends before climbing up to the village of Thulo Syabru. We later met some Nepali trekkers who had taken the upper trail at the suspension bridge and they wasted several hours hiking the wrong way. From Pairo it took us 2 hours to reach the very pleasant village of Thulo Syabru (2,210 metres). Most of the village is modern and there are several good hotels. This was the nicest village since the start of the Langtang trek. It was only 09.45 when we arrived at Thulo Syabru and so unfortunately it was too early to spend the night there. We therefore ordered an early lunch of dal bhat at the Hotel Mona Lisa. We spent 1.75 hours having lunch and relaxing before continuing the relentless ascent. Most itineraries for the Langtang and Gosainkunda treks take the trail from Thulo Syabru to Shin Gompa (Chandanbari) and then onto Gosainkunda the following day. I don’t understand why as there is a more direct route via Mukharka.  We took the more direct trail via Mukharka and reached our destination of Chyolangpati (3,620 metres) at 16.30 after 7 hours of walking. I descended 1,750 metres yesterday and ascended 1,800 metres today! There is a new tea house at Chyolangpati which is a vast improvement on the other old lodge. Initially there were only 2 other guests but at 19.00 six Nepali arrived in the dark. I had only seen 3 other trekkers on the hike the entire day. It was therefore a surprise to see many Nepali pilgrims passing Chyolangpati on the way back down to Shin Gompa. I learned that most pilgrims don’t stay at Gosainkunda lake due to the high altitude and visit Gosainkunda lake as a day trip from Shin Gompa. There were a lot of high clouds during today’s hike and it spoiled the mountain views. However, the weather cleared in the evening and there was a fantastic sunset over the mountains.  29 November 2023 - Chyolangpati to Gosainkunda Lake It was a quiet night and the temperature fell to 2 centigrade in the room. I feel the cold the most in the mornings and there was no fire in the dining room for breakfast as usual. The path from Chyolangpati (3,620 metres) to Gosainkunda Lake (4,420 metres) was fairly busy with pilgrims going up to the Gosainkunda holy lakes for the day. The path had been concreted in places and safety railings had been installed where there were drop offs. It was sunny but unfortunately high clouds blocked the views of the mountains again. It took 52 minutes to reach Laurebina which has 2 tea houses. There were good views despite the high clouds. We reached a view point near Ganesh Mandir (4,365 metres) after another hour. It then only took another hour on an undulating trail to reach Gosainkunda lake. There are four old and basic tea houses at Gosainkunda lake. Unfortunately they are very similar to the old and dilapidated tea houses on the first section of the Langtang trek! The Tibet Hotel seemed to be the best out of a bad bunch and I reluctantly took a room there. There were no other guests when I checked in. Shortly afterwards 3 Nepali and 2 Chinese flew into Gosainkunda by helicopter and checked into the tea house. They were a strange group and I contemplated moving to another tea house. Later on I wished I had! In the afternoon I slowly walked around the main Gosainkunda lake and enjoyed the views. It was sunny but there was a cold wind. Whenever there was some shelter from the wind  it was warm enough to comfortably sit out. The group of 3 Nepali and 2 Chinese guests were weird. The Chinese man believed in aliens and drew strange images on paper. They were at Gosainkunda for religious reasons and at one point they started chanting and swaying. Two of the Nepali were a mother and daughter. They were unconcerned about altitude sickness even though they were unacclimatised and had flown to Gosainkunda Lake, which is at an altitude of 4,420 metres. They were obviously wealthy as the return helicopter flight cost $4,000! 30 November 2023 - Surya Peak The Chinese in the room next to me were noisy last night. When they started talking at 01.30 I shouted at them to be quiet and they were. Niru wasn't so lucky and couldn’t sleep well because the young Nepalese woman in the room next to him had altitude sickness and her mother was administering oxygen.  The group had intended to spend 2 nights at Gosainkunda Lake but they left by helicopter at 07.00 the next day because of the altitude and primitive conditions.  I had a spare day as we had hiked faster than I had intended after leaving Kyanjin Gompa on the Langtang trek. One option was to return to Kathmandu a day early and the other option was to hike up Surya Peak (5,150 metres). Not many people  hike up Surya Peak as it is difficult to locate and the terrain is very rocky.  Niru was keen to go up Surya Peak as he hadn't been up before. He found out details of the route from the owner of the tea house. The owner estimated that it would take us 4 hours to ascend and 3 hours to descend. We set off for Surya Peak at 07.00 with a packed lunch of Tibetan bread and boiled eggs. My Garmin Inreach said that it would be sunny all day but it was cloudy and cold. Niru found the turn off to Surya Peak and I was surprised to see cairns marking the way. The terrain was extremely rough. We walked across stones and boulders the entire way and had to ensure they were stable before treading on them. There was some scrambling and in a couple of places a slip could have been fatal. I find it easier to ascend than descend on tricky sections and I was concerned about the safety of the descent. It took 3 hours to reach the summit of Surya Peak and I was very happy to have made it. The trail had been well cairned the entire way. There were a lot of prayer flags at the summit but I was surprised that my Garmin Inreach showed the altitude to be only 5,049 metres. Surya Peak is meant to be at an altitude of 5,150 metres. I later learnt that we had climbed to the wrong peak. Someone on the internet called it "Gosainkunda Ri". See my blog on Planning the Gosainkunda Trek for further details. It was cloudy and cold but we could see a few peaks. We probably only spent 20 minutes at the top because of the cold wind. I was relieved when Niru said there was a safer, but longer, way back to Gosainkunda lake. We had hiked up the south side of Surya Peak and the safer descent was initially down the north side. After the initial steep and rocky descent from Surya Peak we ate our packed lunches. We didn’t stop for long as it started to snow lightly. Niru was concerned about the deteriorating visibility as he was relying on being able to see the mountains for navigation. The route back to Gosainkunda lake was far less hairy than the route up although it still involved constant boulder hopping and the terrain was very rough. Every so often we would come across an isolated cairn and it provided reassurance that we were on the correct route. We reached Gosainkunda lake at 13.30 and the circular hike took us 6.5 hours. I immediately ordered lunch and found that there were several other Nepali trekkers in the dining room. In the afternoon it started to snow and up to an inch of snow settled on the ground. I relaxed in the warm dining room for the rest of the day. In the evening a young Nepali couple arrived in the dark. They live in the U.S.A. and were very friendly. The tea house was now full, which I never like. Fortunately it wasn’t noisy during the night and I slept well. 1 December 2023 - Gosainkunda Lake to Ghopte We left Gosainkunda lake at 08.00 and ascended 130 metres to the Suryakund/Laurebina pass. There was some snow on the trail but fortunately the weather had improved today and it was sunny. After the pass we descended steeply for over 2 hours until we reached a tea house at Phedi (3,630 metres). There were 2 newsworthy events here in the early 1990's: In July 1992 a Thai Airways jet crashed just below Phedi and 113 people died. A trainee air traffic controller was at fault. There were parts from the plane at the tea house. A young Australian doctor (James Scott) got lost here in December 1991 and survived for 43 days without food. He was eventually found through the great efforts of his sister. Unfortunately he suffered permanent damage to his eyesight from vitamin deficiency. I had read his book about this and was interested to see where it had happened. James Scott got lost in snow as when he turned back he wrongly thought he had to descend at Phedi. In reality the path from Phedi to Ghopte ascends steeply before descending. Unfortunately we had to do this ascent after having dal baht! We reached the settlement of Ghopte (3,430 metres) after about 7 hours of walking from Gosainkunda lake, including a stop for lunch. There are 2 basic, but reasonable, tea houses at Ghopte. We were the only people staying at the Namaste Hotel & Lodge. It was quieter and warmer than at Gosainkunda lake. There were 2 other trekkers from the Czech Republic and Australia staying at the other tea house. The trail from Gosainkunda lake to Helambu is so quiet compared to the busy Langtang trek and the trail from Chyolangpati to Gosainkunda lake. 2 December 2023 - Ghopte to Kutumsang The day started with a 300 metre ascent to Thadepati Pass (3,730 metres) and it took 1 hour 40 minutes. There are good mountain views from a metal lookout tower at Thedepati . There are 3 or 4 tea houses at Thedepati and we stopped for tea.  After Thedepati we left the trail for the Gosainkunda trek and started a section of the Helambu trek. We were going to hike south on the trail for the Helambu trek until we reached Sundarjal. We could have hiked east on the Helambu trek instead but it would have been more difficult to travel back to Kathmandu from that end of the trail. We hiked for another 1.5 hours to Magengoth (3,390 metres) and had lunch there. Three British trekkers arrived from the other direction. They were very poorly prepared for their Gosainkunda trek and didn’t even have enough cash. They were trying to use a debit card at the tea house and I was surprised that they might be possible. After another 2.25 hours we reached our destination of Kutumsang (2,470 metres). We found a new hotel which had good rooms and my guide negotiated a rate of R800 ($6). It was the best accommodation for some time. I even had a hot shower. The only problem was that the room had a funny smell, even with the windows open. Another trekker told me that it was probably because there wasn’t a U bend in the shower drain pipe to prevent smells coming from the sewer pipe. It seems to be a common problem with cheap hotels in Nepal.  There seemed to be only 3 other trekkers staying in Kutumsang. There was a Czech trekker staying at my hotel and a French trekker and an Australian trekker staying at other hotels.  The French trekker was in a rush to get back to Kathmandu and didn’t have time to finish the Helambu trek. He was taking a local bus from Kutumsang to Kathmandu early the next morning. The bus stops at most of the local villages and takes about 8 hours. 3 December 2023 - Kutumsang to Chisapani The trail had been beautifully quiet ever since we left Gosainkunda lake on 1 December and there were only 2 other trekkers descending on the Helambu trail. The pilgrims that go to Gosainkunda lake fortunately go back down the same way rather than continuing on to Helambu. The scenery was not as spectacular as higher up. However, when looking back there were often views of the Ganesh Himal, Langtang and Everest mountain ranges. Manaslu could be seen and it's the world's 5th highest mountain. After leaving Kutumsang we followed rough dirt roads for a while which I am not keen on. Fortunately the traffic on the dirt road was very minimal. Although we were descending towards Kathmandu there was also a lot of ascent! It took 3 hours to reach Chipling. There are 2 or 3 tea houses there and I had vegetable fried noodles for lunch. After Chipling there was a steep 500 metre descent followed by a steep 400 metre ascent to Chisapani. That took 3 hours. I stayed at a good hotel again and took their best room for R1,500 ($12). The other rooms cost R1,000. There were only 2 other trekkers staying there. There was a youngish trekker from the Czech Republic, who I was now friendly with, and a very quiet South Korean woman. Both were trekking by themselves. The hotel was temporarily being run by a 17 year old girl as her parents are in Kathmandu. She could only cook dal baht for supper. Luckily I hadn’t had dal baht for lunch. For breakfast she could only cook Tibetan bread and omelette and I liked that. In the evening I had a beer with Niru to thank him for the trek and I gave him his tip. I had enjoyed his company and he had been an excellent guide. The room was quiet and very nice except for the noise from stray dogs. A pack of them fought outside my room at 23.00 and 05.30. 4 December 2023 - Chisapani to Kathmandu Niru and I walked through Chisapani, passing an abandoned building that had been drastically tilted by the 2015 earthquake. After Chisapani the Helambu trek enters the Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park. I had to buy an entrance permit for R1,000 ($8) and I paid R100 for Niru’s entrance permit. The trail for the Helambu trek steeply ascends 300 metres from Chisapani and afterwards descends 1,000 metres to the town of Sundarjal. The trail goes through forest and there are very few views. It took less than 4 hours to reach Sundarjal. We stopped for lunch and then took a taxi to Thamel that cost about R1,000 ($8). 5 & 6 December 2023 - Kathmandu My flight back to the U.K. was at 02.30 on 6 December. I had one full day in Kathmandu and occupied my time with a visit to Bhaktapur. I had been there last year but I always enjoy walking around its quiet streets. The Qatar Airways flight went well and I arrived back in the U.K. on the afternoon of 6 December. I had spent 42 days in Nepal and had trekked for 33 days in Kanchenjunga, Langtang, Gosainkunda and Helambu. It was a very enjoyable trip. Links to other Blogs on the Langtang, Gosainkunda & Helambu Treks Langtang Trek Blogs Planning the Gosainkunda & Helambu Trek

Contents Introduction Opening Hours Tickets Parking What to See My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Introduction Mycenae is one of the most important archaeological sites of Greece. The period of Greek history from 1600 BC to 1100 BC was called the Mycenaean period because of its importance. At Mycenae's peak in 1350 BC, the citadel and lower town had a population of 30,000 people. Mycenae is a very popular and busy site. The main path from Lion Gate to the Citadel can look like Mount Everest on summit day! All groups stop at Lion Gate and are given a talk there. As a result Lion Gate becomes very congested and it is difficult to take photos. It is important to time your visit to Mycenae so it doesn't coincide with the peak time of tour groups visits. It is best to arrive early or late in the day and this also avoids the summer heat. In the mornings aim to arrive at opening time but by 09.00 at the latest. In the afternoon you should arrive after 17.00, the later the better. Parking will also be a lot easier. We also visited the nearby archaeological of Tiryns on the same day. See my blog Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide . 2. Opening Hours at Mycenae Winter: From 01.11.2022 to 31.3.2023 08:30-15:30 Summer: April : 08:00-19:00 02.05.2023 - 31st August 2023 : 08:00-20:00 1st September - 15th September : 08:00-19:30 16th September - 30th September : 08:00-19:00 1st October - 15th October : 08:00-18:30 16th October - 31st October : 08:00-18:00 Good Friday: 12.00-17.00 Holy Saturday: 08:30-15:30 Holidays 1 January 25 March 1 May Easter Sunday 25 December 26 December 3. Tickets for Mycenae Tickets for Mycenae cost Eur 12 from April to October and Eur 6 from November to March. There is free admission for children up to the age of 5, under 25's and students. However, students and under 25's have to reside in the EU. You must provide documentary proof. Admission to Mycenae is free on the following days: 6 March 18 April 18 May The last weekend of September. 28 October Every first Sunday from November 1st to March 31st. 4. Parking at Mycenae There is a car park at Mycenae which is usually full with buses. You can park along the road but at peak times you may have a problem finding a parking place. 5. What to See at Mycenae It would take about 1.5 to 2 hours to see everything at Mycenae including the museum. It all depends on your level of interest in ancient Greece. The main sights to see are: 5.1. Lions Gate Mycenae is fortified with Cyclopean walls of huge irregular stones and has two triumphal entrances. The larger entrance is the Lion's Gate and it was built around 1400-1300 BC. The heads of the lions are missing, but they would have faced frontally to fulfil their role as guardians of the entrance. 5.2. The Cyclopean Walls Mycenae's Cyclopean walls are the most famous example of Cyclopean masonry. The term derives from the mythical Cyclopes. He was believed to be the one who built them as only he would have had the strength to move such huge boulders. There are good views of the Cyclopean walls to the right of Lions Gate, before entering it. Very few people come here. 5.3. Grave Circle A Grave Circle A is a 16th-century BC royal cemetery. The burial complex was initially constructed outside the walls of Mycenae. It was later enclosed in the acropolis when the fortification was extended during the 13th century BC. A total of nineteen men, women, and children were buried here. Among the funerary gifts found were several gold death masks, full sets of weapons, ornate staffs, gold jewellery, as well as gold and silver cups. It has been estimated that Circle A contained about 15 kilos of gold. 5.4. The Royal Palace Mycenae's palace is in a central location atop the citadel and was the main building within the fortified walls. The state rooms were arranged around a central court which led to the Megaron (a grand reception hall). The ruins are only at ground level but you can distinguish what was a great court, the throne room, the megaron and the royal apartments. 5.5. The Royal Tombs There are 3 spectacular royal tombs outside the walls of Mycenae. We found them to be the most interesting thing after Lion Gate. They aren't busy like the rest of the archaeological site. 5.6. The Tomb of Aegisthus The Tomb of Aegisthus is among the earliest examples of Tholos Tombs. It was built of small stones in the early 15th century BC. Aegisthus organized the assassination of Agamemnon along with his mistress. There is no evidence that Aegisthus was buried in this tomb. Tour groups usually just look down into the tomb and don't bother to go down and enter it. It is worth doing so. 5.7. The Tholos Tomb of Clytemnestra Near the tomb of Aegisthus is the Tholos Tomb of Clytemnestra, the legendary wife of Agamemnon. Its name implies that Clytemnestra was buried in it but there is no such evidence. The tomb was looted by Veli Pasha during the Ottoman rule, but otherwise is in excellent condition and shows exceptional masonry craftsmanship. When we visited Mycenae we had the tomb to ourselves! 5.8. The Treasury of Atreus The Treasury of Atreus is four hundred metres down the road from Mycenae's main site. It was built between 1350 and 1250 BC and is the best preserved Tholos tomb. It's an architectural masterpiece displaying the high level of craftsmanship reached by the Bronze Age masons. The entire monument is constructed with exceptionally well cut stones. The tomb was never buried by earth and always remained visible throughout the centuries. It was robbed in antiquity and there is no indication of who was buried there. Its function as the tomb of Atreus, the father of Agamemnon, is by no means certain. 5.9. The Museum The entrance to the archaeological site of Mycenae includes the museum. It contains many valuable items excavated from this site. Unfortunately the gold masks found in Grace Circle A by Schliemann, the archaeologist, aren't here. There is a copy of one. 6. My Other Blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

After spending 4 very pleasant days in Himare (see my blog Himare, Albania: Travel Guide ) we drove up to Berat for a one night stay. We then continued on to Kruje (see my blog Kruje, Albania: Travel Guide ). Contents Introduction Berat Castle Berat's Moslem Mangalemi neighbourhood The Christian Gorica neighbourhood The Central Area North of the River Accommodation in Berat Links to My Other Blogs on Albania 1. Introduction Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site like Gjirokaster, but fortunately much more interesting. I found Gjirokaster very disappointing as detailed in my blog Gjirokaster, Albania: Nothing Special! . We certainly felt that Berat deserved a 1 night stop over. It takes about half a day to see the main sights in Berat. These are: Berat's huge inhabited castle. The Moslem Mangalemi neighbourhood. The Christian Gorica neighbourhood. Berat's central area north of the Usumi River with the King's Mosque, Leaden Mosque and the Boulevard Republika with its cafes and restaurants. 2. Berat Castle We walked up the steep cobbled street called Mihal Komneno to reach Berat Castle entrance. Locals drive up but we wanted some exercise. I also try to avoid driving in historic centres if possible as the driving can get very hairy. Berat Castle is always open as there are inhabited dwellings within the castle walls. We didn't pay an entrance fee as we got there after 18.00 as it had been raining heavily in the afternoon. The castle's website indicates there is an entrance fee of 300 Lek (Eur3) between 09.00 to 16.00 from Tuesday to Saturday and between 09.00 to 14.00 on a Sunday. The other 2 castles (Gjirokaster & Palermo) that we visited in Albania weren't very ancient and only dated back to the early 1800's. Berat castle is old with many structures dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries. It was much more interesting than the other 2 castles. Berat Castle covers a huge area and consists of walls, fortifications, streets, mosques and churches. You need a minimum of an hour to see the castle and if you explore it fully it could take up to 2 hours. There are several signs throughout the site suggesting routes to follow and providing information on the structures. There are some small restaurants within the castle walls near the entrance. The Bradt guide book recommends the Klea and the Onufri restaurants. 3. The Moslem Mangalemi neighbourhood It is the Mangalemi neighbourhood that gave Berat its nickname of the City of a Thousand Windows. It is best viewed in the evening from the bridge over to Gorica or from Gorica's riverside. It is very atmospheric during the evening call to prayer and you don't feel that you are in Europe. Shops and restaurants line the north side of the road that follows the riverbank. Unfortunately the road is busy and it isn't a particularly special walk. However, it is worth walking a short way to the Gorica Bridge that was built in 1780. It is a beautiful stone bridge that crosses over to the Christian Gorica neighbourhood of Berat. 4. The Christian Gorica neighbourhood It is very pleasant wandering around the old streets of Gorica and there is very little traffic. It is mainly a quiet residential area and there aren't many shops or restaurants. 5. Berat's Central Area North of the River The area to the east of the Bachelors's Mosque in Mangalemi is flat and runs south eastwards along the river Osumi. There are some historical buildings to see like the King's Mosque and the Leaden Mosque. Boulevard Republika is the liveliest street in Berat and is lined with cafes and restaurants on the northern side. It's a good place to eat with plenty of opportunity to people watch. 6. Accommodation in Berat We stayed in a fantastic 3 bedroom luxury penthouse apartment in Berat for only Eur 45 per night. It can be booked through Booking.com . Details of the apartment are on my blog titled UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 . It is number 8 on this blog. 7. Links to My Other Blogs on Albania Kruje, Albania: Travel Guide Himare, Albania: Travel Guide Gjirokaster, Albania: Nothing Special! Driving through Albania: From Greece to Montenegro The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8 Albania to Montenegro - Week 9

We drove from Parga in Greece to Gjirokaster (see my blog Driving through Albania: From Greece to Montenegro ). We spent 1 night in Gjirokaster before driving to Himare (see my blog Himare, Albania: Travel Guide ). Contents Introduction Gjirokaster Castle The Bazaar The Stone Houses New Gjirokaster Accommodation in Gjirokaster Links to my Other Blogs on Albania 1. Introduction Gjirokaster was our first stop in Albania whilst driving back to England from Greece. We had decided to spend one night there as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the Bradt guide book describes Gjirokaster as a " beautiful Ottoman town ". Travel blogs raved about Gjirokaster and one well known blog stated " Spend a few days walking around the iconic cobblestone streets, browsing cute carpet and ceramic shops". I am certainly glad that we didn't follow their advice as half a day is adequate! Too many guide books and blogs give undeserved positive impressions of places. As a result travellers waste their time and money following flawed advice. In my opinion Gjirokaster isn't worth a visit unless you are passing by. If you do visit then 3 to 4 hours is sufficient unless you want to spend hours " browsing cute carpet and ceramic shops "! We don't need any more clutter in our house, particularly touristy junk. 2. Gjirokaster Castle The highlight of Gjirokaster is the castle on the hill above the town. It is a steep climb up! In summer it is open from 09.00 to 18.00 and the entrance fee is 400 Lek (about Eur 4). It takes around 45 minutes to see Gjirokaster castle. Most of what can be seen of the castle dates back to 1811. There are vaults to explore and the most interesting one displays numerous pieces of heavy artillery captured from the German and Italian forces in the 2nd world war. Unfortunately there are no descriptions for the items on display. Above the vaults there is a clock tower and incongruously an American spy plane that was forced down in 1957. There are 2 museums located at the castle and admission is extra. They are the Museum of Armaments and the Museum of Gjirokaster. We didn't visit them. 3. Gjirokaster Bazaar Lower down on the hill below Gjirokaster castle is the bazaar. There are about 5 streets packed with tourist shops, cafes and restaurants. This area is very vibrant and interesting to see but it is very touristy. The buildings only date back to the early 20th century as the old buildings were destroyed in a fire. 4. Gjirokaster's Stone Houses On the hill leading up to the bazaar and castle are some stone houses with grey slate roofs. Most of them date from the first half of the 19th century. A few of them have been turned into museums and the entrance fees are around the equivalent of Eur 5. There aren't enough of these houses for the area to be impressive. 5. New Gjirokaster The new city centre of Gjirokaster was a bit scruffy and not very special. 6. Accommodation in Gjirokaster We stayed in a very good value and spacious apartment costing Eur 38 per night near the stadium in Gjirokaster. Details of the apartment are on our blog UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 . It is number 6 on this blog. 7. Links to my Other Blogs on Albania Kruje, Albania: Travel Guide Berat, Albania: Travel Guide Himare, Albania: Travel Guide Driving through Albania: From Greece to Montenegro The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8 Albania to Montenegro - Week 9

We spent 3 nights in Trogir and visited Split and Omis from there. See my blogs Split, Croatia: Travel Guide and Omis, Croatia: Travel Guide . Trogir is definitely worth visiting as it a beautiful old Venetian town that hasn't been spoiled by modern development. Contents Trogir Old Town Trogir New Town Accommodation in Trogir My Other Blogs on Croatia 1. Trogir Old Town Trogir's Old Town is on an island only 50 metres off the mainland. The Old Town is unspoilt as virtually all the buildings originate from 4 centuries of Venetian rule and there are no modern buildings on the island. There used to be 2 bridges over to the island. When we were there the wooden bridge for pedestrians, west of the main bridge, was closed. The main bridge crosses over to the Land Gate entrance to Trogir's Old Town. To the south east of the Land Gate are most of Trogir's main buildings. These are the: Cathedral of St Lawrence with its famous carved stone west portal dating back to 1240. There is a Eur 5 entrance fee to see the interior but the famous west portal can be seen from outside. Cipiko Palace. There is nothing to see inside. Town Loggia & Clock Tower. Trogir's Town Hall There is a wide promenade along the Trogir Channel at the southern end of the island. Sections of the old town walls, and the Kamerlengo fortress (entry Eur 5), can be seen. The promenade is lined with restaurants and cafes. There is a bridge at this southern end of the island to another larger island called Ciovo. There are some shops and restaurants on the Ciovi side of the bridge but there is little worth seeing. We were in Trogir in late June and in the evenings the Old Town was teeming with visitors and many restaurants were full. 2. Trogir's New Town Trogir's new town has spread out on the mainland on either side of the bridge crossing to Trogir's Old Town. The bus station is on the eastern side of the bridge. There is also a new and pleasant seafront promenade running eastwards that has views of Ciovi island. There is a busy tourist market on the western side of the bridge. Slightly further to the west are several large car parks and visitors parking here pass through the market to reach Trogir's Old Town. Parking costs between Eur 2 to Eur 3 per hour in high season depending on how close you park to Trogir's Old Town. There are several supermarkets along the coastal road west of the bridge to Trogir's Old Town. The biggest and best one is a Plodine supermarket on the ground floor of a small 3 storey shopping centre. There is free underground parking for customers. There is a Lidl supermarket 4 kms east of Trogir's Old Town. 3. Accommodation in Trogir We stayed in a 1 bedroom apartment about a 10 minute walk from Trogir Old Town. The apartment was very nice and the hosts were very hospitable. We booked the apartment through Booking.com and it cost Eur 69 per night. I have reviewed the apartment in my blog UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 (number 11). 4. My Other Blogs on Croatia Hvar Island, Croatia: Travel Guide Rovinj & Pula, Croatia: Travel Guide Split, Croatia: Travel Guide Omis, Croatia: Travel Guide Krk Town, Croatia: Travel Guide Brac, Croatia: Travel Guide Rab, Croatia: Travel Guide Montenegro to Croatia- Week 10 Brac to Rab, Croatia - Week 11 Rab to Dolomites, Italy - Week 12

Contents Introduction Corinth Canal Acrocorinth Ancient Corinth Links to My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Introduction We visited Corinth while we were staying at nearby Nafplio. We opted not to stay in Corinth as it isn't a particularly attractive city. It is definitely worth a visit to see the spectacular Corinth canal, the fortress of Acrocorinth and ancient Corinth. It takes about 4 to 5 hours to see these 3 sights. 2. Corinth Canal The 6 kilometre long Corinth canal was opened in 1893. It provides a short cut for vessels sailing between the Aegean and Ionian seas. Corinth canal is a spectacular sight. Unfortunately you rarely see ships sailing on it nowadays as it isn't wide enough for most commercial vessels. The best view of Corinth Canal is from the bridge at the northern end of the isthmus. Enter" Díolkos " on Google maps to locate it. There is free parking on the eastern side of the bridge where there are several restaurants. There is a path on both sides of the bridge for viewing Corinth canal. 3. Acrocorinth 3.1. About Acrocorinth Acrocorinth is the ancient acropolis of Corinth and dates back to the 7th century BC. The Romans destroyed Acrocorinth in 146 BC and then rebuilt it in 44 BC. Fortifications and buildings were erected and added to over the centuries by the Romans, Byzantines, Crusaders, Franks, Venetians and Turks. Acrocorinth is a massive site on top of the mountain and still largely encircled by 2 kilometres of defensive walls. Acrocorinth is definitely worth visiting to see the fortifications, historic buildings and the views. 3.2. How to get to Acrocorinth Acrocorinth is a 15 minute drive from modern Corinth and the final 5 minutes is up a steep paved road. There is a free car park at the top. From there it is a 5 minute walk on some slippery stones to the entrance gate in the fortifications. 3.3. Opening Times & Entrance Fee for Acrocorinth Acrocorinth is open from 08.30 to 15.30 each day. Surprisingly it is free to enter. I cannot see this large site getting crowded even in peak season. The slippery stones and the walk up the hill means that there will be very few tour groups. 3.4. What to See at Acrocorinth We spent an hour and 45 minutes exploring Acrocorinth's large site. The rocky paths, particularly from the car park to the entrance, can be very slippery. Wear good footwear and be careful. If it is raining it would be advisable to postpone your visit. There is very little shade. The main things to see are: Acrocorinth's Fortifications The double wall fortifications are the most impressive feature of Acrocorinth. You get a good view of them from the Frankish Tower at the top of the mountain. Also if you turn right after the entrance gate you can walk on a section of the walls. When looking back the walls are very impressive. The Chapel of St Dimitrios This small chapel was built in the 17th century and it is free to enter. Acrocorinth Mosque or Sultan Ahme d III Mosque This mosque was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed III after the Ottoman reconquest of 1715. You cannot enter the mosque but you can look into the interior. The Southwestern (Frankish) Tower The exact date of its construction isn't known but it was during the Frankish occupation of Greece in the 13th and 14th centuries. The Frankish tower was restored in 2014. It is possible to enter the Frankish Tower and climb up. You cannot get onto the roof nor see any views. There are good views from the area outside the Frankish Tower. 4. Ancient Corinth 4.1. About Ancient Corinth Ancient Corinth is a 10 minute drive from modern Corinth and is below the Acrocorinth. Corinth was raised to the ground by the Romans in 146 BC and then rebuilt in 44 BC. It was a large city and became the capital of Greece in the Roman era. The city declined after it was plundered in 1147. It is a massive archaeological site but is mostly overgrown ruins. It is still very impressive and worth a visit to see the Temple of Apollo, Fountain of Peirene, the main street (Lechaion Way) and the museum. 4.2. Opening Hours and Entrance Fee Both the site and the museum for ancient Corinth open at 08.00 and in the peak season close at 20.00. It closes slightly earlier at other times. See the odysseus.culture website for details There is an entrance fee of Eur 8 and this covers both the site and the museum for ancient Corinth. 4.3. Parking and Toilets There is free parking and toilets are outside the museum. 4.4. What to See You can spend 1 to 2 hours at Ancient Corinth. There is an interesting museum. The other main sites to see are: 4.5. The Temple of Apollo This impressive temple was built in the 5th century BC and has 7 Doric columns. 4.6. The Main Road (Lechaion Way) This was the main north-south artery of the Roman city. It linked Corinth with the harbor of Lechaion on the Corinthian gulf 3 kilometers to the north. 4.7. Peirene Fountain This beautiful building was constructed by the Romans. It had been a simple spring for many centuries before that. The Romans added a grandiose façade, a great court, and an open-air basin holding 81,000 gallons of water. The Fountain of Peirene was the city’s most important water supply. 5. Links to my other blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

Our visit to Rovinj was part of a 3 month road trip from the UK to the Greece. See my blog Rab to Dolomites, Italy - Week 12  for our daily trip report covering Rovinj. Contents Rovinj Pula Accommodation in Rovinj My Other Blogs on Croatia 1. Rovinj 1.1 About Rovinj & What to See Rovinj has a very Italian appearance and apparently some inhabitants still speak Italian. It is an unspoilt historic town, but not Venetian like so many of Croatia's coastal towns. That made a nice change as we had just visited numerous Venetian towns in Montenegro and Croatia. Rovinj is a reasonably large town and there is little traffic so it is great wandering around. There are not too many sights to see, but Rovinj is an exceptionally nice town in a beautiful setting. Rovinj's main square is Trg Marsala Tita and it has a clock tower. In summer there are often street performers in the square. A street called Grisia branches off the square to the west through a Balbi's Arce and then climbs up to St Euphemia's Church. The 18th century St Euphemia's Church is at the top of the hill in the centre of the old town. Its tower is very impressive and is visible from most parts of Rovinj. There isn't an entry fee and it is worthwhile seeing the interior. There are good sea views from the plaza by the church. 1.2. A Circular Walk around Rovinj It is nice to walk around the perimeter of Rovinj. Start from the southern end of the harbour and and walk along the harbour to the piers in the northern section. The promenade along the harbour is surrounded by cafes and restaurants. Then continue walking westwards along the sea and soon the street climbs up to St Euphemia's church. From there descend eastwards along the northern part of Rovinj. There are houses and shops on either side with a few alleys on the left descending to the sea. Trg Valdibora is at the bottom of the hill and from around this area is an impressive view of the northern side of Rovinj. Then walk south to the very nearby main square of Trg Marsala Tita, which is just off the harbour. Just north of Trg Marsala Tita walk down Rovinj's main shopping street (Via Carrera) that runs south eastward. At the end of Via Carrera take a side street to the right and you will be back at the harbour where you started. 1.3. Parking in Rovinj We parked at a reasonably sized car park on the eastern side of Rovinj and it was a 10 to 15 minute walk into the centre. There were always places available and it cost Eur 1 per hour. Payable in advance by cash or card. Click here to see the location on Google Maps. 1.4. Beaches in Rovinj We spent half a day at Zlatni Rt (Golden Cape). It is a 6 minute drive from Rovinj to the edge of Zlatni Rt (Golden Cape), and then depending on where you park, a 10 to 15 minute walk through wooded parkland to the sea. The closest parking is on the road where it ends at Zlatni Rt. However, you have to get there early to find a spot. Otherwise there are large parking lots a bit further back. We parked at " Parking Monvi " which is a huge parking lot. You can pay at a machine with a credit card or cash, exact change only. We paid Eur 7 for the day, but there is also an hourly charge. There are a couple of beaches in the large park (Lone Beach and Zlatni Rt), but we just found a nice shaded spot on the rocky shoreline. I think we were near Punta Cabana . It is a popular area so go there by mid morning to obtain a good spot and also to find parking. There were a couple of restaurants nearby and they were renting out sun loungers and umbrellas. 2. Pula 2.1. About Pula & What to See Pula is a working port that isn't as reliant on tourism as other Croatian coastal towns. Pula isn't a particularly attractive town, unlike the numerous Venetian coastal towns dotted along Croatia's coast. However, Pula is more authentic and caters for locals rather than tourists. There are many interesting historical sights in Pula and it is definitely worth visiting for half a day. Many of the sights date back to the Roman era and include: The sixth largest amphitheatre in the world dating back to around 14 AD. The Roman amphitheatre is the main tourist site in Pula and the entrance fee is Eur 10. In summer it is open from 08.00 to 22.00. We entered at 09.00 and there were very few people until 09.30. Unfortunately they were constructing a large stage and screen for summer events. This prevented us from taking photos of the entire amphitheatre and the construction was noisy. They do this in summer at many amphitheatres and it spoils the experience for visitors who are paying high entrance fees. The Triumphal Arch of the Sergii which was erected in 27 BC. The Temple of Augustus which was completed in 14 AD. The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary that dates back to Roman times, although much of the present structure is from the 17th century. The Venetian castle built in the 1600's. We didn't enter the Venetian castle as there was a Eur 6 entrance fee. This fee also includes the museum but we didn't want to visit it. Instead we walked the entire way around the castle on a reasonable path. There were good views of the moat, castle walls, Pula harbour and the amphitheatre. The views wouldn't have been much better from the castle. The Pula indoor market which was constructed in 1903. 2.2. Getting There & Parking in Pula We visited Pula as a half day trip because Rovinj was a more attractive town to base ourselves in. Pula is a 50 minute drive from Rovinj. Car parking can be a problem in Pula but if you are willing to pay Eur 4 per hour there is a good solution. " Parking Karolina " is a large car park with 200 spaces next to the amphitheatre and it still had spaces when we left at midday. The Eur 4 per hour charge is the most we paid anywhere during our 3 month road trip but it was worth the convenience. Before exiting you pay at the ticket machines by card or cash. There are clean toilets for a charge of Eur 0.70, but there are also free clean toilets at the amphitheatre. 3. Accommodation in Rovinj We stayed in an excellent one bedroom apartment about a 10 minute drive from the the centre of Rovinj. We booked it through Booking.com for only Eur 61 per night. I have reviewed it on my blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 " (number 15). 4. My other blogs on Croatia Hvar Island, Croatia: Travel Guide Split, Croatia: Travel Guide Trogir, Croatia: Travel Guide Omis, Croatia: Travel Guide Krk Town, Croatia: Travel Guide Brac, Croatia: Travel Guide Rab, Croatia: Travel Guide Montenegro to Croatia- Week 10 Brac to Rab, Croatia - Week 11 Rab to Dolomites, Italy - Week 12

Contents Introduction   Hotel Panorama in Kruje   The Bazaar   The Castle   Links to My Other Blogs on Albania 1. Introduction We enjoyed our 1 night stay in Kruje, but that was mainly because we really liked the Hotel Panorama where we were staying. More about that in the next section. The small old section of Kruje is very attractive but it is also very touristy. There isn't that much to see apart from a small, renovated and touristy bazaar and a very dilapidated castle. Unless you are going to visit the 2 museums Kruje can be seen in about 1 hour. We didn't visit the museums as we are only interested in visiting really good ones. The building of the Historical Museum is impressive. However, the focus on Skanderbed didn't appeal to us and the Bradt guide book says that all the information is in Albanian. Apparently a free guide is provided to interpret and that also didn't appeal. The entrance fee is 500 Lek which again was unappealing! Kruje could be visited as a day trip from Tirana as it is an hour's drive from Tirana. It would probably take almost 2 hours by bus as the buses to Kruje depart from the regional bus station on the outskirts of Tirana. The Bradt guide book suggests staying in Kruje if you need an overnight stay when departing from, or arriving at, Tirana International Airport. This would seem to be a good option as it is a 45 minute drive between Kruje and the airport. 2. Hotel Panorama in Kruje We avoided staying in hotels during our 3 month road trip but we couldn't find any suitable apartments in Kruje. The Hotel Panorama had excellent reviews, free parking and cost less than Eur 70 for a double room with breakfast. What more could we want! We arrived at Hotel Panorama in the early afternoon and the friendly front desk clerk gave us a room facing the castle, bazaar and mosque. Some people don't like being so close to the mosque due to the early morning call to prayer, but for us it added to the atmosphere. The view from our room and balcony was fantastic. As I said in the introduction it doesn't take long to see Kruje and it was really nice just sitting on the balcony absorbing the view and atmosphere. We usually don't eat at hotels, but a couple of reviewers on Tripadvisor recommended eating at Hotel Panorama. We are glad that we had our dinner there as the restaurant is nice, the food is good and the cost is very reasonable. It is popular so a reservation is advisable. We were fortunate to be given a room with a view. A couple who arrived shortly after us were disappointed not to have a view. On Booking.com it isn't possible to select a room with a castle view but on the hotel's website it is. As the price is the same I recommend booking directly with the hotel. 3. The Bazaar in Kruje Kruje's bazaar was restored in the 1960's and as they are wooden buildings I suspect there is little left of the original structures. The bazaar consists of one street with shops on either side and then another street with shops just on the one side. It isn't a huge area and many of the shops sell the same stuff. Unless you are a shopper the bazaar can be seen in 5 to 10 minutes. It is nice for photos but the bazaar solely exists for tourists! 4. The Castle in Kruje Kruje's castle is always open and there is no entrance fee. Unless you visit the History Museum the castle can easily be seen in half an hour. The castle is derelict and was also affected by an earthquake in November 2019. This badly damaged the clock tower and it is no longer open to the public. It also badly damaged the Tekke (Teqe) and it is in the process of being restored. We were allowed to look around, but it is in such a bad state it is no longer worth visiting. There is also a hammam in the castle grounds but entry isn't possible. 5. Links to My Other Blogs on Albania Himare, Albania: Travel Guide Berat, Albania: Travel Guide Gjirokaster, Albania: Nothing Special! Driving through Albania: From Greece to Montenegro The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8 Albania to Montenegro - Week 9

Contents Introduction Traffic and Parking in Split Diocletian's Palace West of Diocletian's Palace Golden Gate & the Grgur Ninsk Statue Split's Waterfront (Riva) My other Blogs on Croatia 1. Introduction Split's Old Town is one of the highlights of Croatia and should definitely be visited if you are in the vicinity. There is a lot to see and you need half a day to see it. We found that tour groups descended on Split's Old Town from 10.30 a.m. and it then became congested in many areas. Therefore try and arrive early to avoid the crowds and to find parking. 2. Traffic and Parking in Split The roads around Split, including the main coastal road, can be very congested. It can also be very difficult to find a parking place. We parked at a large car park only a 5 minute walk to Diocletian's Palace and it can be located by entering "Parking Split" on Google maps . We had to circle around 3 times before finding a space and each time we had to exit the car park and the attendant let us out without any hassle. The parking spaces are wide and it costs Eur 1.50 per hour. If you are leaving Split on a car ferry see my blog " Brac, Croatia: Travel Guide " (section 4) for information about the ferry port at Split. 3. Diocletian's Palace The area of Diocletian's Palace occupies the eastern half of Split's Old Town. The Palace was built in AD 300 but fell into disuse by the 6th century. From the 7th century refugees fled to Split and lived in the palace. Over the centuries the palace's building was changed so that it is no longer recognisable as a palace. Most of the area of the "Palace" can be seen by just freely wandering around. However, you have to pay to enter the Cathedral and the Cellars of Diocletian's Palace. The entry fee for the cellars is Eur 7. The entry fee for Split's cathedral depends on what you visit and the charges are steep. It costs Eur 5 to enter the cathedral, but there are additional charges for the bell tower, crypt, baptistery and treasury. If you visit everything it will set you back Eur 15. We visited the Cathedral and I am not convinced it was worth the fee. It is very small and we have seen a lot of cathedrals for free. There are public toilets near the eastern entrance to the "Palace". 4. West of Diocletian's Palace Split's Old Town continues from the western side of Diocletian's Palace to the pedestrianised street of Marmontova. Narodni Trg is known as People's Square and is a large and impressive square on the western edge of the Palace. There are lots of interesting alleys to explore in this western area. Marmontova runs from north to south and is a very classy shopping street. On its south eastern corner is the very grand city council building known as the Prokurative. 5. Golden Gate & the Grgur Ninsk Statue The Golden Gate is the northern gate and is the best preserved gate in Split. It is set in Split's huge and impressive city walls. Outside the gate is a small plaza with a gigantic statue of the 10th century Bishop Grgur Ninski. The statue was made in 1929. 6. Split's Waterfront (Riva) A wide waterfront promenade runs along the southern section of Split's old town and in places along Diocletian's Palace. It is lined with shops, cafes and restaurants. It is a very pleasant area and there are plenty of places to sit, relax and people watch. There are public toilets at the eastern end. 7. My Other Blogs on Croatia Hvar Island, Croatia: Travel Guide Rovinj & Pula, Croatia: Travel Guide Trogir, Croatia: Travel Guide Omis, Croatia: Travel Guide Krk Town, Croatia: Travel Guide Brac, Croatia: Travel Guide Rab, Croatia: Travel Guide Montenegro to Croatia- Week 10 Brac to Rab, Croatia - Week 11 Rab to Dolomites, Italy - Week 12

Contents 1. Introduction 2. Skopje Parking in Skopje The New City Centre Old Skopje 3. Tetovo 4. Excursion to Popova Sapka 5. Accommodation in Tetovo 6. Links to My Other Blogs on North Macedonia 1. Introduction We stopped for 3 nights in Tetovo during our road trip from the UK to Greece and visited Skopje as a day trip. See my blog Serbia to North Macedonia - Week 3 for our daily trip report . We stayed in Tetovo as we found a good apartment at a very reasonable price. With the benefit of hindsight I wish that we had stayed in Skopje instead. 2. Skopje 2.1. Parking in Skopje We parked at the Shopping Centre Vero on the south side of the river. It is a short walk along the riverside to the centre of Skopje. We visited Skopje on a Sunday and so the parking was free. You have to pay most days but the charges are reasonable. It is a large car park below the shopping centre and there was a security guard. There is a good supermarket on the upper floor of the shopping centre as well as free toilets. There is parking at Kale Fortress in Skopje but reviews mentioned that vehicles had been broken into. 2.2. Skopje's New City Centre I was very impressed with the new area of Skopje that runs along both banks of the River Vardar. It is a spacious area, with well designed buildings, and there are huge statues, monuments and fountains everywhere. This area was renovated by the Skopje 2014 project. Some critics believe that it is like Disneyland and want the monuments and statues removed. I must really like Disneyland! Makedonija's Square is the focal point of the area on the south side of the river. In the middle of the square there is a huge statue of a Warrior on a Horse. The warrior is Alexandra the Great. There are numerous restaurants and cafes around the square. To the north of Makedonija's Square the ancient Stone Bridge crosses the river to the historic centre of Skopje on the north bank. Just north of Stone Bridge is a plaza with an impressive monument to Philip II of Macedonia, Alexander the Great's father. In the plaza there is the Fountain of the Mothers of Macedonia and 3 other fountains. There is a beautiful water and light show at night. There is an esplanade to the west of Stone Bridge that runs 6 kilometres along the south bank of the river. It is a good place to walk and at night the path is lit. There is even a beach on the river at City Park. 2.3. Old Skopje We had difficulty locating several of the historic sites in old Skopje, despite the many signs. Eventually we found them but it was tiring and frustrating as it was hot. We wandered around the pedestrianised streets and alleys of the Old Bazaar area. It is atmospheric but most of the shops are geared for tourism. There were a lot of tourists, and some tour groups, despite it only being late April. We visited 4 main sites in old Skopje: The Cifte Amam National Art Gallery In my opinion it is the most impressive building in Skopje. It used to be a hamman (Turkish bath house) but is now an art gallery. We didn't go in but admired the exterior from the plaza on the south eastern side of the building. The Church of Sveti Spas The exterior of this Ottoman era church is unimposing. It was built partly below ground level since the church's bell tower couldn't be taller than a mosque. It is famous for its intricately carved wooden iconostasis. This is a screen of icons and religious paintings separating the nave from the main part of the church. It was made in the early 1800's. There is an entry fee of Eur1. Mustafa Pasha Mosque This is the largest mosque in Skopje and was built in 1492. We had a quick look inside just before prayers commenced. The Kale Fortress Entrance to the Kale fortress is free as the 10th century fort is very neglected. You can walk along the walls which give good views over the city and river. There is nothing else to see as only the fortress walls and towers are still standing. The entrance is at the north east side of the fortress. 3. Tetovo Tetovo is a lively town with few tourists but there isn't a lot to see. The main things to see are: 3.1. Tetovo's Central Shopping Area Tetovo's main street is Boulevard Illyria (also called Marshall Tito). It runs from Illyria Square to the Palma Shopping Mall which has a large supermarket. Boulevard Illyria is very vibrant, lined with shops and restaurants for locals rather than tourists. Northeast of the junction with Blagoja Toska street is the large indoor Green Market. Running south from Illyria Square is Ilindenska street, another major shopping street. The Serena Dzamija Mosque and the hamman are on this street. There are a couple of shops selling small barbequed chickens for Eur 5 which is something we enjoy! 3.2. The Sarena Dzamija Mosque This small and colourful 16th century mosque is the prettiest building in Tetovo. Both the interior and exterior are stunning. It is in the centre of Tetovo on the river Pena. 3.3. The Hamman (Turkish Bathhouse) at Tetovo It is a beautiful 15th century building in a very scenic spot in the centre of Tetovo. It is across the river from the Sarena Dzamija mosque. It now houses an art gallery. 3.4. Arabati Baba Bektasi Teke The Bradt guide book says this is " one of the prettiest sites in town " although it is " in considerable disrepair ". Their first statement is wrong and misleading! The place is a mess and there is nothing worthwhile to see. Don't waste your time going there. 4. An Excursion to Popova Sapka Popova Sapka is a ski resort a 20 kilometre drive from Tetovo. It is 1,800 metres above sea level. It is a scenic drive up on a good road but sadly the road side was strewn with litter. The Bradt guide mentions that " parking is at a premium ". We were the only visitors in late April so parking wasn't a problem. It must be a lot busier in the summer months as it makes a good day outing for locals from Tetovo and even Skopje. There are hotels at the ski resort. In the summer time a number of hikes are possible. There was a hiking signpost at the ski resort (see the photo) but we didn't see any route signage. Hiking maps for the area can only be bought in North Macedonia. It is therefore difficult to plan a hike from abroad. Besides we knew that there might be too much snow around in late April so we didn't come prepared to hike. As we couldn't get a good view of the mountains from the ski resort we walked half an hour up a nearby hill. 5. Accommodation in Tetovo We booked a spacious 1 bedroom apartment in the centre of Tetovo through Airbnb . It cost Euro 112 for 3 nights plus Euro 20 for underground parking. I reviewed this apartment on my blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 1 " (number 10). 6. Links to My Other Blogs on North Macedonia Ohrid Town, North Macedonia: Travel Guide Serbia to North Macedonia - Week 3 North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4

Contents Introduction Novi Sad Sremski Karlovci Accommodation in Novi Sad My Other Blogs on Serbia 1. Introduction We drove from England to Greece and we stopped for 3 nights in Novi Sad on the way down. We had a bad introduction to Serbia at the border! There was a long queue and it took an hour to get through passport control. We then had to buy third party car insurance. This took 45 minutes as the insurance agent was uncertain of the procedure. He had to phone for advice several times. He became agitated and it didn't help that he couldn't speak English. When he finally finished he informed us that the cost was Eur 215! We queried it but the amount in Serbian Dinar was on the car insurance document. There was nothing we could do but pay. The maximum we paid for car insurance in any of the other non EU countries, like Albania, Montenegro and North Macedonia, was Eur 50. We were puzzled that no one else was buying 3rd party car insurance at the border. I later discovered that the EU, Norway, Switzerland and even Iceland have an agreement with Serbia. Drivers from those countries don't need to buy car insurance. We weren't that impressed with Serbia and there doesn't seem to be many interesting sights to see. We had intended to drive from Novi Sad to Subotica for a day trip but we changed our mind. Parking is apparently difficult and apart from a few nice buildings it didn't seem worth the effort. Unfortunately some travel guides and books rave about places that aren't special. They promote them with a couple of pictures of the only things worth seeing. In the end we spent our 2 full days in Serbia looking around Novi Sad and Sremski Karlovci. One full day would have been more than sufficient. See my blogs Venice to Serbia - Week 2 and Serbia to North Macedonia - Week 3 for an account of our drive to and from Novi Sad in Serbia. 2. Novi Sad 2.1. The Promenade along the Danube Novi Sad is Serbia's 2nd largest city. It sits on the west bank of the Danube and has a very pleasant promenade running from the Reljkoviceva bridge in the north to the Strand in the south. The Strand has beaches and grassy parkland on the bank of the Danube. It is a very popular area in summer but it was deserted at the beginning of May. 2.2. The Petrovaradin Fortress The main attraction when visiting Novi Sad is Petrovaradin Fortress. As its name suggests it isn't actually in Novi Sad but in Petrovaradin. Petrovaradin is on the opposite bank of the Danube and faces towards Novi Sad. To reach Petrovaradin Fortress cross the Danube on the Varadin bridge and then walk towards the right, up to the fortress. Entrance is free but there is a charge for the museum. We tried to visit the tunnels below the castle but you have to join a tour. Unfortunately there weren't any tours when we were there. The main thing to do is to walk around the castle walls and enjoy the views. Once you have reached the castle you need about half an hour to see it. There are toilets for a small fee. 2.3. Novi Sad's City Centre The historic buildings in the Novi Sad's centre can be seen in a couple of hours. The buildings aren't that old as most of Novi Sad was destroyed in 1848 by Hungarian troops. Novi Sad is a pleasant city but it really only warrants a 1 night stopover, unless you use Novi Sad as a base to see Belgrade and Subotica. I doubt whether either of those places are really worth visiting. 3. Sremski Karlovci 3.1. How to Get There Bus numbers 61 and 62 regularly run between Novi Sad and Sremski Karlovci. The journey takes about 20 minutes and only costs the equivalent of Eur 1 each way. We took the bus from the main street in Novi Sad named Bulevar Mihajla Pupina near the Varadin bridge. It can also be boarded at the bus station. 3.2. What to See The Bradt Guide says that Sremski Karlovci is a small historic town and one of the most attractive in all of Serbia thanks to its unspoiled character and wealth of handsome Hasburg-period architecture. The centre of Sremski Karlovci has some attractive buildings but it is a small area and it doesn't take long to see. There are 3 small museums . My photos show most of the sights. You can see everything, excluding the museums, in about half an hour. Sremski Karlovci is a quiet town with very few restaurants and cafes. It certainly isn't touristy and there were no other visitors. Most of the historic buildings are around the main square (Trg Branka Radicevica) and date back to the 18th and early 19th century. 4. Accommodation in Novi Sad We booked a very spacious 2 bedroom apartment in Novi Sad through Booking.com for only Euro 45 per night. It was very central and on the bank of the Danube. It was excellent value but it needed repainting and felt neglected. It was in communist era apartment block which didn't give a good first impression. A review of this apartment is on my blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 1 " (number 9). 5 . My Other Blogs on Serbia Venice to Serbia - Week 2 Serbia to North Macedonia - Week 3