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  • Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide

    We brought our UK car to Naxos by taking the car ferry from Syros (see my blog Syros, Greece: Travel Guide ). We spent 5 nights on Naxos island and it was our favourite Cyclades island. We left by taking a car ferry to the island of Andros (see my blog Andros, Greece: Travel Guide ). Contents 1. Introduction 2. Naxos Town 3. Hikes Mount Zas (Zeus) Hike Melanes - Flerio - Potamia Hike Halki to Moni Hike 4. A Drive from Naxos to Apollonas Apiranthos Koronos Apollonas Kouroi at Flerio 5. The Beaches south of Naxos 6. Halki 7. Filoti 8. Accommodation 9. Links to My Other Blogs 1. Introduction When planning our trip I was concerned that Naxos might be spoiled by tourism. Naxos Town was certainly busy in June but we still enjoyed walking around this delightful old town every evening. Naxos is the largest island in the Cyclades and there is very little tourist development in the remainder of the island. We visited 4 of the Cyclades islands and Naxos was our favourite as: Naxos Town is interesting to explore. The island is very scenic and mountainous. There are many old and picturesque villages. There are some excellent sandy beaches south of Naxos Town. We had a couple of good hikes including a hike up Mount Zas. This is the highest point in the Cyclades. 2. Naxos Town 2.1 Parking in Naxos Town There is a very large free car park just north of the centre of Naxos town. It is a 10 minute walk to the harbour. We always found a parking spot when we were there in early June. It is shown as " Naxos Municipal Parking " on Google maps. Be careful as there are a couple of other municipal car parks in the same area with similar names. There is a free municipal car park on the southern side of the town. It is more convenient than the northern one. It is not quite as large so it is more difficult to find a parking space. It is shown as " Municipal Parking 1 " on Google maps. 2.2 The Old Town Naxos Town is a very picturesque old coastal town on a hill with a Kastro on the top. There is a maze of winding narrow streets and alleyways, some of which pass through tunnels, between the seafront esplanade and the Kastro. There are shops and restaurants on the waterfront and in the alleyways in the lower section of Naxos old town. They cater for tourists rather than locals. It is still very pleasant and interesting to wander around. It is definitely worth walking up to the Kastro but there isn't much to do or see when you get there. The only view is to the east towards the interior of Naxos. There is a cathedral at the top which was closed when we went in the evenings. There is also an Archaeological Museum in the Kastro. 2.3 The Temple of Apollo The Temple of Apollo which was built in 530 BC, but never completed, lies at the end of the causeway leading from Naxos Town. From the Temple there is an excellent view back to Naxos Town. It is a very popular place to stroll in the evenings. 2.4. The New Section of Naxos Town & the Beaches The newer part of Naxos is south of the old town and Evripeou is the main square. The main road north of the square has shops and restaurants aimed more at locals. To the south west of the main square is the long, sandy and shallow Saint George beach. It gets good reviews on Google . The road between the square and the beach has many restaurants frequented by tourists. Grotto beach, just north of the causeway to the Temple of Apollo, is a stone beach. It is not as appealing. 3. Hikes There were 3 circular hikes that I wanted to do on Naxos island but we only did 2. The Alltrails website provides details of many hikes on Naxos with very useful reviews. The reviews often indicate the condition of the trail. 3.1. Mount Zas (Zeus) Hike Mount Zas is 1,003 metres high and is the highest point in the Cyclades. It is a popular hike as many people like to reach the highest point. Try to do this hike in good weather so you can enjoy the views from the top. We had low clouds so we couldn't see anything! There are 3 main hiking routes up Mount Zas: Hike from Ayia Marina Chapel to Mount Zas It is a 40 minute drive from Naxos Town to the Ayia Marina Chapel. There is some car parking at the small chapel and also along the road. Enter " Saint Marina Holy Chapel " on Google maps to locate the chapel. This is the easiest and quickest trail up Mount Zas. It was the one we hiked. The trail is well marked, ascends 396 metres and it took us about 2 hours and 15 minutes to reach the summit. The final 15 minutes is steep and rocky. Take care not to twist an ankle. It was raining when we descended and the rocky trail was very slippery. Luckily we brought walking sticks which made it safer and faster. The Alltrails website and App show this trail up Mount Zas and it can be downloaded onto your phone. It isn't really necessary as the trail is well marked. On the way down don't take the trail forking off to Aria Spring. Hike from Aria Spring to Mount Zas It is a 40 minute drive from Naxos town to Aria Spring. Enter Fontaine d’Aria on Google maps to locate the starting point. The turn off from the main road is clearly signposted. There is limited parking on the road. The Alltrails website and App show this trail. It is worth downloading this trail onto your phone as it isn't clear at one point . The first 20 minutes of the hike is along a paved path to the Cave of Zeus. It then becomes a rocky trail that is more difficult than the Ayia Marina trail. It ascends 484 metres to the summit of Mount Zas compared to 396 metres on the Ayia Marina trail. The hike takes about 2.5 hours. Hike from Filoti to Mount Zas This is the most difficult trail up Mount Zas and normally undertaken by people relying on public transport. The trail ascends 607 metres and the hike takes about 3 hours 45 minutes. The route is shown on the Alltrails website . 3.2. Trail 6 Melanes - Flerio - Potamia Hike This is a beautiful walk that passes right by the archaeological site at Flerio on Naxox island. There you can see the 2 famous kouroi dating back to 570 BC. See my blog for further details. You will pass through the pretty and unspoiled villages of Ano Potomia and Mesi Potomia. We hiked clockwise from Melanes and the trail is marked with a red dot and a red number 6 until Mesi Potomia. After that it helps to use the AllRoutes app for a section of the trail. The hike took us 3 hours and 15 minutes. We didn't stop to see the kouroi at Flerio as we were wet from the rain. The hike can be shortened by taking other trails from east to west before reaching Ano Potamia. These trails are shown on the AllRoutes App. The first section from Melanes is down a steep, wet and slippery path and it wasn't raining at the time. Hiking poles would definitely help. The next section was a bit overgrown but after that the trail was very good. The trail descends steeply to Ano Potamia and then climbs up to Mesi Potomia. It is an easy walk once you reach the dirt road after Mesi Potomia. 3.3 Trail 4 - Halki to Moni Circular Hike I planned to do this hike as it seemed to be an interesting circular hike. Sadly we ran out of time. The route is detailed on the AllRoutes website . The reviews of this route indicate that in 2023: About 30% of it isn't well maintained. The second section of the trail on AllRoutes trail isn't correct and the signs for trail 4 and 4A should be followed instead. The hike takes 3 to 4 hours. Other useful information about this hike is on the Tripadvisor forum and the Cycladen website . 4. A Drive from Naxos Town to Apollonas We took the inland route north up to Apollonas and stopped off at Apiranthos and Koronos. We drove back south on the coastal road and turned off to see the kouri at Flerio. The drive took about 6.5 hours and it was very scenic. It was tiring driving on the mountainous roads and there were very few places to pull over to take photos and to enjoy the views. 4.1. Apiranthos We thought that Apiranthos was the prettiest and most interesting village on Naxos island. Apiranthos is quite large and we spent an hour walking around the alleyways. There aren't any particular sights to see. We got there before 10.00 a.m. and there were very few other visitors. There were several restaurants and shops so I am sure it would be busy later in the day. There was parking along the main road. 4.2. Koronos Koronos is a pretty village but not nearly as interesting as Apiranthos. There is a nice taverna at the bottom of the village, with a good outdoor seating area, but there is no tourism infrastructure. I don't think it is worth visiting. We parked on the main road and walked down a steep road to the bottom of the village and then back up a different way. We couldn't find a car park. 4.3. Apollonas There is limited free parking at the southern end of Apollonas. Apollonas is a modern, and not very pretty, village with a couple of beaches. Tavernas surround the beach in the centre of the village. There is not a lot to see or do but it would be a good place to have a swim. 4.4. Kouroi at Flerio Flerio is a 25 minute drive from Naxos Town. Enter " Faragi Kouros " in Google maps to obtain directions. The parking area and the entrance to the Kouroi are free. Kouroi are sculptures of men. There are 2 kouroi at Flerio and they date back to 570 BC. These 5 metre long kouroi were unfinished due to damage to the stone. There is an ancient sanctuary nearby which dates back to the 7th century BC. There is very little left to see. The marble quarry high up in the hill above the site is much more impressive. It takes about 30 minutes to see the 2 kouroi and the ancient sanctuary. They can be visited when doing the circular hike from Melanes to Potamia . 5. The Beaches south of Naxos There are some excellent beaches on Naxos and the best ones are south of Naxos Town. We drove south to Agiassos on the tarred interior road that goes via Galanado and Ano Sagri. We then drove up the coastal road to Naxos Town and stopped off at the beaches on the way. 5.1. Agiassos Beach There is a dirt road from Agiassos to Alkyo which is suitable for saloon cars. We swam at Agiassos beach and had the long beach to ourselves. It is a lovely sandy beach but there are sections with. rocks in the water. 5.2. Alkyo and Hawaii Beach Our next stop was at Alkyo to see the famous Hawaii beach. There are 2 beaches on either side of the promontory at Alkyo. The beach on the southern side had a car park. Hawaii beach is across the road on the northern side. It is known as Hawaii due to the vibrant blue colour of the sea. There are no facilities at either of these beaches. 5.3. Mikri Vigla/Orkos Beach There are long sandy beaches on either side of the promontory. The beaches at Mikri Vigla and Orkos are both popular with kite surfers. We spent an enjoyable hour watching people learning to kite surf. It wouldn't be a relaxing place to sunbathe with the kites hovering above the beach. 5.4. Agia Anna Beach The beach at Agia Anna was the most developed beach that we saw during our drive along the beaches south west of Naxos Town. This isn't surprising given its close proximity to Naxos Town. It merges into Agios Prokopios beach to the north. Agios Prokopios beach is said to be an excellent beach but we didn't visit it. 6. Halki The village of Halki is very popular with tourists. It has several Byzantine churches including the 9th century Church of Panagia Protothronos. It is a pretty village but a bit touristy. There is a large free car park on the north eastern edge of Halki. 7. Filoti Filoti is a popular village and there is a large free car park on the left side of the road when driving from Naxos Town. There isn't much to see in Filoti and half an hour is sufficient for wandering around. The main sight is the Church of Panaglia Filotitissa which was built in 1718. Entry to the interior is free. 8. Accommodation We stayed in an excellent 2 bedroom apartment in the village of Galanado. It is a 10 minute drive to Naxos Town. We booked it through Booking.com and paid Eur 75 per night. My review of the accommodation is on my blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 " (number 2). 9. Links to My Other Blogs Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

  • Syros, Greece: Travel Guide

    Contents Introduction Ermoupolis Ano Syros The Western Villages: Finikas, Galissas, Kini & Delphini A Hike to Komito Lighthouse Cape Dhiapori Hike Car Ferries to and from Syros Accommodation in Syros Links to My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Introduction 1.1. Our Itinerary for the Cyclades We wanted to visit 4 of the Cyclades islands during our 3 month European road trip. However, I found out that it was expensive to take cars on the ferries. I therefore looked into leaving our car in Athens and renting cars on each island. Unfortunately this worked out to be even more expensive so I reverted back to using our own car. By using our own car we were more restricted in our choice of islands as there aren't car ferries between all the islands. I used the Ferryhopper website to determine which islands had car ferries running between them. We didn't want to visit touristy islands like Mykonos and Santorini. I eventually devised a circular route to 4 Cyclades islands with only Naxos being touristy. Our itinerary was Athens (Piraeus) - Syros - Naxos - Tinos - Andros - Athens (Rafina). We stayed 4 or 5 nights on each island. I have done blogs on the other 3 islands that we visited: Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide , Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide and Andros, Greece: Travel Guide . 1.2. Why we chose to visit Syros The Rough Guide says " Syros is a living, working island with only a fleeting history of tourism, rendering it the most Greek of the Cyclades ". Ermoupolis and Ano Syros seemed to be very attractive and interesting Greek towns. There were convenient car ferries going to and from Syros. The Tripadvisor forum mentioned that the hiking trails were excellent. 1.3. Is Syros worth visiting? The Rough Guide states that "the villages don't sprawl widely with new developments". We found that there was a lot of sporadic development along many of the roads in the southern part of Syros. It spoiled the scenery and it was a bit scruffy. Ermoupolis was an interesting town and wasn't touristy. We didn't find Ano Syros very interesting but like Ermoupolis it looks very spectacular when viewed from a distance. There weren't any other interesting towns and villages apart from Ermoupolis. There were several nice beaches on the island but it wasn't beach weather while we were there. There are some good hikes with clear signposting. Like on other Cyclades islands the trails aren't always well maintained and can be overgrown. The Alltrails website and App show many of the trails and reviews by hikers will indicate if there are problems. We found our 4 night stay on Syros to be long enough. 2. Ermoupolis 2.1. Parking Parking can be difficult in Ermoupolis. The owner of our apartment recommended parking at the port and we had no problem finding a parking spot there. You take a ticket when entering and pay at a machine when leaving. It cost us Eur 2 for about 3 hours. You can locate the parking by entering " Ermoupolis Port Parking " in Google Maps. 2.2. What to See We spent 2 to 3 hours looking around Ermoupolis. It is a large and interesting town so you could spend more time exploring. Most of the shops and restaurants cater to locals rather than tourists. Unfortunately all the churches were closed. The Town Hall is the most impressive building on the main square Platia Miaouli. The main shopping area is between the waterfront and the square. The street running along the waterfront is packed with restaurants. From the square we walked north east up to the Appollon Theatre and then onto the Church of Ayos Nikolaos. Both were built in the mid 1800's. We continued walking up to the north east and entered the Vaporia district, which is where the wealthy used to live. We then walked to the top of the hill to see Anastasi Church which was built in 1870. It was closed but there are good views from it. 3. Ano Syros The main road northwards from Ermoupolis climbs up the hill, passing near the top of Ano Syros before continuing. We parked in a small free parking lot at the top. There is also parking along the road on the way up. It was a short walk to the Anastasi Church at the top of Ano Syros. The church was open but the terrace was closed. This was disappointing as there would have been good views from it. There wasn't much to see at the top of Ano Syros. We met a couple who had walked up. From the photos they showed us I am not sure if it is worth the walk up. It wasn't even worth driving up. 4. The Western Villages: Finikas, Galissas, Kini & Delfini 4.1. Kini Kini is a pretty village with a harbour, several beachside tavernas and a free parking lot off the waterfront. There is a scenic walk along the coast from Kini to 1 kilometre north of the nudist beach at Delfini. After that the path ends and the terrain becomes rough. The walk there and back took us 1 hour and 15 minutes. Most of the route is shown on the AllTrails website . 4.2. Galissas The village is a bit scruffy. It is in a flat and not very scenic area but has a good sandy beach in a very sheltered bay. There is plenty of free parking. 4.3. Finikas We stayed near Finikas and liked it. It is a pretty village with beaches, several restaurants and a large free parking lot next to the supermarket. There is a pleasant walk southwards along the seafront. 5. A Hike to Komito Lighthouse 5.1. About the Komito Lighthouse Hike We did a 1 hour 15 minute circular hike from Komito beach to Komito lighthouse which is on the most southerly point of Syros. It is a very scenic hike with open sea views all the way. If you wanted to extend the hike you could start from Finikas but this section is developed. There is parking at Komito Beach which is a pretty beach. There are umbrellas, which were free in May but there may be a charge in the main summer season. It would be a good place for a swim after the walk. 5.2. Route Details From Komito beach you can see 2 trails going up the hill: The first path starts at the south end of the beach and goes left up the hill. It is the most direct path to the lighthouse. We came back on this path. The AllTrails website and App shows this path and you can follow it on your phone. The 2nd path is a bit further on and it is the route we used to walk to Komito lighthouse. Walk 100 to 200 metres along the jeep track that follows the coast and then follow the trail to the left that climbs steeply up the hill. The jeep track ends shortly afterwards at a house so you will know if you have gone too far. The trail goes above and around this house. The trail is fairly high above the sea and follows the coast until you reach the lighthouse. After the lighthouse walk back a couple of hundred metres until you reach the left turn to the path you came up on. You can either turn left, and return the way you came, or continue straight on. Before doing either of these climb up the hill to the right for a good view. If you continue straight on at the junction you will eventually see the house at the end of the jeep track near Komito beach below. At this point look for a clear path to the left with red markings and follow it. It descends to Komito beach. 6. Cape Dhiapori Hike 6.1. About the Cape Dhiapori Hike The southern half of Syros is developed, whereas the northern barren and mountainous part has very few settlements. Cape Dhiapori is the most northerly part of Syros. There is a scenic circular 3 hour 15 minutes circular walk to the Cape from the end of the northern road. This walk is on the AllTrails website and app. It is useful to download the route onto your phone as there are a couple of places where the trail isn't clear. 6.2. Route Details You can park on the side of the road where it ends at the village of Kambos. There is a very clear trail continuing on from the end of the road. After 5 to 10 minutes there is a signpost in Greek. The path to the left leads to a couple of beaches. Continue straight on for Cape Dhiapori. You walk high above the east coast of Syros and have great coastal views. It takes about 1 hour 40 minutes to reach the Cape. The trail is relatively easy to follow except in a couple of places. The path is marked by stones with red spots. The final section of the path became very rocky. There was no clear path around so we didn't do the circular traverse of the Cape. On the way back we took the trail above the west coast. At one point the trail was not clear and we relied on the AllTrails app. We would have eventually found our way without the app but it made it easier. The 2nd half of the trail was also very scenic. There are 3 inviting beaches off the trail. We didn't descend to the beaches but they would be good for a swim at the end of the walk. At least one of them had umbrellas. Eventually there is a steep climb back up to the signpost at the start of the trail. 7. Car Ferries to and from Syros 7.1. From Athens to Syros At Piraeus we got to the port an hour and a half before departure. It was very confusing. The large Blue Star car ferry was already at the dock but there was no one around to tell us where to wait. Lani went to ask someone and they directed us to a small waiting area by the ferry. We waited there for an hour watching trailers being driven onto the ferry. Lots of cars arrived after us and many of them were directed to drive straight on to the ferry. We were wondering if they had forgotten about us. Finally we were told to drive onto the ferry. It was not a roll on roll off ferry. They wanted me to do a lot of manoeuvring and it was stressful as they didn't communicate clearly. When reversing they wanted me to only look at their hand signals and not where I was going. It is important to arrive at the stipulated time when boarding the large ferries at Piraeus. The ferries can be packed with vehicles. Vehicles going to the furthest islands will probably board first. I doubt that these vehicles would be allowed to board late as they would block vehicles getting off earlier islands. 7.2. From Syros The ferry tickets state you should arrive at the port at least one hour before departure. When we were departing from the islands very few cars arrived more than 30 minutes beforehand. It was often even less than that! At Syros there was a ferry official at the dock when we arrived an hour ahead of the departure time. On the other islands the officials would arrive much closer to the departure time. It was always worrying as we weren't sure if we were in the right area. 8. Accommodation in Syros We booked a 2 bedroom apartment through Booking.com for Eur 79 per night and we really enjoyed our 4 night stay. We took advantage of an off-season free upgrade to a 2 bedroom apartment. My review of this accommodation is on my blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 ". 9. Links to My Other Blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

  • What to take for the Everest Base Camp Trek

    Information on what to take for the Everest Base Camp trek and details of companies that provide travel insurance for high altitude treks. Click here  to read my other blogs about the Everest Base Camp and Everest 3 Passes treks. Contents Introduction Clothes in Main Pack & to Wear Miscellaneous Items Medications Toiletries etc Sleeping 35 to 45 Litre Day Pack Travel Insurance Policy Links to my other Everest Base Camp Trek Blogs 1. Introduction I am not a light packer and I have a porter or porter/guide to carry my pack. However, this ultra light packing list is by someone who did the Everest Base Camp 3 passes trek in November and everything weighed 4.26 kilos including the pack! I usually have more than that in my day pack! What I pack depends on the time of the year. I have only trekked in the Everest region in May when it is warmer and easier to wash clothes. See my blog My Daily Reports on the Everest 3 Passes Trek . We have done the Everest Base Camp trek twice. The first time I was too hot in my Rab Ascent 900 sleeping bag so I bought a Rab Ascent 700 for my second EBC trek. It was perfect for the May temperatures, but during winter I would need something warmer or would have to use the lodge's blankets. If you do forget to bring something for the Everest Base Camp trek you can very likely buy it in Kathmandu, Lukla or Namche Bazaar. I wouldn't want to buy boots or hiking shoes in Nepal. I met a trekker in Gokyo who had to abort his Everest 3 passes trek as the boots he bought in Kathmandu were falling apart. 2. Clothes in Main Pack & to Wear 2 light pairs of long trekking pants (they can convert to shorts) 2 trekking T shirts (one synthetic and the other heavier merino wool) 1 light long sleeve synthetic trekking top 1 warm merino long sleeve trekking shirt 1 Rab trekking sweater 3 merino hiking socks 3 liner socks 4 underpants Scarpa boots Scarpa shoes (not essential, but more comfortable, and a back up for the boots) Long johns for trekking when it is cold and in the evenings Primaloft pants for cold evenings (can be bought for about NPR 3000 in Kathmandu) 3. Miscellaneous Items Factor 50 sunblock Trekking Map Two pin double USB plug Reading spectacles Spare boot laces 4 Spare Energizer lithium AA batteries (for the Steripen) Petzl rechargeable headlight String (approx 6 metres for drying clothes in the bedroom) 12 Clothes pegs Ear plugs (I don't like using them) Kobo or Kindle Photocopies of relevant pages from guide books Water purification tablets (for emergencies) Cellphone charger Earphones for listening to music at night Dried apricots to keep me regular! 4. Medications Paracetamol Azithromycin for bad stomach issues (don't use Ciprofloxacin due to side effects risks) Rennies tablets for heartburn Strepsils for coughs (can be bought at some lodges) Plasters (lots) Micropore tape Knee brace (never used it) Thermometer Covid test kit Diamox (I have never used it but bring it in case I get altitude sickness) 5. Toiletries etc Shaver Toothpaste Toothbrush Small soap Trekking towel Flip flops for showering Very small bottle of shampoo Small mirror Nail scissors Hand cream Small bottles of hand sanitizer Comb 6. Sleeping Sleeping bag Silk liner bag Pillow case (to go over the tea houses' dirty pillows) 7. 35 to 45 Litre Day Pack The contents depend on the weather & temperature. Lightweight waterproof jacket Lightweight waterproof trousers 2 Trekking poles Rab down jacket Liner Gloves Warmer Gloves Buff Wool hat or beanie Microspikes 2 one litre water bottles Tilley hat and baseball hat Sunglasses (category 2 - 4) Steripen Plasters and micropore tape Blister kit (never used it) Toilet paper Lip ice (factor 30) Cellphone Money and passport Notepad and pen Garmin Inreach Mini Cover for day pack 8. Travel Insurance for the Everest Base Camp trek Travel insurance for trekking in Nepal is expensive because of all the scams perpetuated by guides and trekkers themselves. Do ensure that you obtain an insurance policy that will cover you up to 5,500 metres if you are trekking to Everest Base Camp. Jamie McGuinness has climbed Everest 6 times and runs a trekking company called Project Himalaya. He has written a very good blog on travel insurance for Nepal and Ladakh. This blog provides details of companies providing the appropriate travel insurance in the UK, North America and Worldwide. 9. Links to my other Everest Base Camp Trek Blogs My Daily Reports on the Everest 3 Passes Trek Day Hikes on the Everest Base Camp Trek Lodges and Tea Houses on the Everest Base Camp Trek When to trek to Everest Base Camp Kathmandu to Lukla and Back Forum Posts, Vlogs & Webcams for Everest Base Camp Trek Guides, Porters and Trekking Agencies

  • Perast & Herceg Novi: Travel Guide

    We drove to Perast during our 4 night stay in Kotor (see my blog Kotor, Montenegro: Travel Guide ). We really liked Perast but found Our Lady of the Rock Island to touristy and busy. Contents Introduction Perast, Montenegro Parking Our Lady of the Rock Island Perast Old Town 3. Herceg Novi, Montenegro 4. Ferry from Kamenari to Lepetane 5. Links to My Other Montenegro Travel Blogs 1. Introduction We based ourselves in Kotor for 6 nights (see my blog Kotor, Montenegro: Travel Guide ) and went on day trips from there to see other places in Montenegro. Perast is only a 20 minute drive from Kotor and it is then another hour to Herceg Novi. The road to Perast and Herceg Novi is in good condition. It is very scenic as it follows the northern shore of a fjord. On the way back it is possible to take a ferry over to the southern side of the fjord and do a circular drive back to Kotor. It is a very nice day trip to 2 historic towns with spectacular scenery the whole way. We left Kotor at 08.00 to avoid the traffic congestion in Kotor and parking problems at Perast. As a result we benefited from having little traffic on the road to Perast. Another way of seeing Perast and Herceg Novi would be to take one of the numerous boat tours on offer when wandering around Kotor's waterfront. These boat tours are normally about 3 hours long and also stop at a few other places like the Blue Cave. It seems most coastal resorts in Europe have a Blue Cave! These boat tours cost around Eur 40 per person, but usually only stop at the islands off Perast and Herceg Novi. We wanted to see the towns and didn't want to spend Eur 80. 2. Perast, Montenegro 2.1. Parking at Perast You cannot park in the centre of Perast unless you are staying there. There is a barrier to prevent unauthorised entry. There is limited free parking along the road above Perast but we paid for parking. Parking is a problem in high season unless you arrive early. Most private parking is off the main road and is free. However, the deal is that you must pay to go to Our Lady of the Rock Island or on a boat tour. Apparently they charge Eur 10 per person to the Island, whereas independent boats only charge Eur 5 per person. So if there are 2 people in your car you are effectively paying Eur 10 for parking! Some of these parking sites have toilets. There is paid parking on the side of the road just before the western entrance to Perast. They charge Eur 8 per day and there is a booth with an attendant there. There aren't that many parking places, but when we arrived at 08.30 we got a space. Input " Parking 1 " on Google maps to locate it. We found the parking attendants to be very helpful and pleasant. For some reason a number of reviewers on Google thought they were like the mafia! 2.2. Our Lady of the Rock Island We were strolling along Perast's waterfront just before 09.00 when a friendly boatman offered us a ride to the island for the usual round trip charge of Eur 5 per person. He promised he would return for us in 30 minutes and assured me that it would be long enough. I had my doubts but it was actually too long! It is a very small island with a church on it. Fortunately there was initially only one other boatload of people there. Unfortunately the church was closed and didn't open until about 09.20. It is therefore best not to go before 09.30 if you want to enter the church. There is a Eur 2 entrance fee. There is a pay toilet on the island and an advantage of getting there early was that it was free. By the time we left at 09.30 a lot more people had arrived on the island and there was a queue to enter the church. It is one of those places that everyone wants to visit, but in reality it is nicer seeing the island from the mainland. It is a bit of a tourist trap. 2.3. Perast Old Town The majority of tourists seem to only visit Our Lady of the Rock Island. This may be because most boat tours only stop at the island. As a result wandering around the quiet streets of the old Venetian town of Perast was very pleasant. Perhaps the tour groups hadn't yet arrived as we were there early. We were impressed by the number of historic buildings along Perast's waterfront. We also enjoyed wandering up most of the streets above the waterfront and admired the Venetian churches and dwellings. It took us 2 hours to see Perast. You could easily spend longer if you go to the beach and have a drink or a meal. 3. Herceg Novi, Montenegro 3.1. Parking in Herceg Novi The Bradt guide states that " parking here is quite the ordeal ". I dislike trying to find parking in new places and usually use Google reviews beforehand to determine where to park. For some reason I didn't do my usual research and was surprised by the size of Herceg Novi when we got there. The main road runs high above the town and when I saw a free metered parking spot on the road I grabbed it. It would have meant a steep and hot walk down to the historic centre, and back up again, but I didn't want to drive around looking for parking. However, the parking meter was faulty and I couldn't pay. It turned out to be fortunate as a local man gave me directions to a cheap and very convenient multi storey car park about 5 minutes walk from the historic centre. There are free toilets at this car park. The car park is called " Parking Opstina " and can be located by entering this name on Google Maps. 3.2. Sightseeing in Herceg Novi We explored the old town, but didn't climb up high to see the Spanish Fort, nor did we walk to Savina Monastery to the east. It doesn't seem worth visiting the Spanish Fort as the Bradt guide describes it as "a messy, graffiti-scrawled ruin". The Bradt guide book suggests starting exploring from the main square (Trg Nikole Durkovica). If you use Parking Ostina it will be the first part of the old town that you reach. From there you can climb up past the Bell Tower to Trg Belavista which has the Church of St Michael in the centre. There are a few restaurants in this square and we had lunch at one of them. We later found a better selection of restaurants around the seafront promenade and wished we had eaten there. We could have then walked up northwards to the 16th century Kanli Kula tower. We decided not to as several reviewers on Google felt that the Eur 4 entrance fee wasn't worth it. In summer time it is a venue for open air productions. It would frustrate me to pay an entrance fee for a place spoiled by being used as a theatre. Instead we walked down to the seafront promenade via the Church of St Jerome and the imposing Forte Mare. The entrance fee is Eur 4 for the Forte Mare (Sea Fortress). Again we decided not to go in as the consensus of Tripadvisor reviews seems to be that it is only worth it for the views. The seafront promenade is very nice and runs for about 5 kilometres to the town of Igalo. We only walked along part of it as it was very hot. There is a narrow beach on the one side and a lot of restaurants and cafes on the other side. 4. Car Ferry from Kamenari to Lepetane We retraced our steps back to Kotor as far as the village of Kamenari. There is a car ferry that goes from Kamenari to Lepetane on the south side of the estuary. The ferry only takes about 10 minutes and costs Eur 5. It is a very regular ferry and we didn't have to wait long before boarding. We were at the end of the queue and didn't realise we had to pay before boarding at an office near the jetty. We weren't the only ones and the ferry staff let me drive onto the ferry while Lani paid. The road that runs along the south side of the estuary from Lepatane to Kotor is very narrow in places. It is too narrow for vehicles to pass at times. As a result I didn't enjoy driving along there despite the stunning scenery. A good strategy is to follow other cars as this usually forces the oncoming vehicles to give way. 5. Links to My Other Montenegro Travel Blogs Kotor, Montenegro: Travel Guide Budva, Montenegro: Travel Guide The Kotor Serpentine Road to Lipa Cave Albania to Montenegro - Week 9 Montenegro to Croatia- Week 10

  • Gjirokaster, Albania: Nothing Special!

    We drove from Parga in Greece to Gjirokaster (see my blog Driving through Albania: From Greece to Montenegro ). We spent 1 night in Gjirokaster before driving to Himare (see my blog Himare, Albania: Travel Guide ). Contents Introduction Gjirokaster Castle The Bazaar The Stone Houses New Gjirokaster Accommodation in Gjirokaster Links to my Other Blogs on Albania 1. Introduction Gjirokaster was our first stop in Albania whilst driving back to England from Greece. We had decided to spend one night there as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the Bradt guide book describes Gjirokaster as a " beautiful Ottoman town ". Travel blogs raved about Gjirokaster and one well known blog stated " Spend a few days walking around the iconic cobblestone streets, browsing cute carpet and ceramic shops". I am certainly glad that we didn't follow their advice as half a day is adequate! Too many guide books and blogs give undeserved positive impressions of places. As a result travellers waste their time and money following flawed advice. In my opinion Gjirokaster isn't worth a visit unless you are passing by. If you do visit then 3 to 4 hours is sufficient unless you want to spend hours " browsing cute carpet and ceramic shops "! We don't need any more clutter in our house, particularly touristy junk. 2. Gjirokaster Castle The highlight of Gjirokaster is the castle on the hill above the town. It is a steep climb up! In summer it is open from 09.00 to 18.00 and the entrance fee is 400 Lek (about Eur 4). It takes around 45 minutes to see the castle. Most of what can be seen of the castle dates back to 1811. There are vaults to explore and the most interesting one displays numerous pieces of heavy artillery captured from the German and Italian forces in the 2nd world war. Unfortunately there are no descriptions for the items on display. Above the vaults there is a clock tower and incongruously an American spy plane that was forced down in 1957. There are 2 museums located at the castle and admission is extra. They are the Museum of Armaments and the Museum of Gjirokaster. We didn't visit them. 3. Gjirokaster Bazaar Lower down on the hill below the castle is the bazaar. There are about 5 streets packed with tourist shops, cafes and restaurants. This area is very vibrant and interesting to see but it is very touristy. The buildings only date back to the early 20th century as the old buildings were destroyed in a fire. 4. Gjirokaster's Stone Houses On the hill leading up to the bazaar and castle are some stone houses with grey slate roofs. Most of them date from the first half of the 19th century. A few of them have been turned into museums and the entrance fees are around the equivalent of Eur 5. There aren't enough of these houses for the area to be impressive. 5. New Gjirokaster The new city centre of Gjirokaster was a bit scruffy and not very special. 6. Accommodation in Gjirokaster We stayed in a very good value and spacious apartment costing Eur 38 per night near the stadium in Gjirokaster. Details of the apartment are on our blog UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 . It is number 6 on this blog. 7. Links to my Other Blogs on Albania Kruje, Albania: Travel Guide Berat, Albania: Travel Guide Himare, Albania: Travel Guide Driving through Albania: From Greece to Montenegro The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8 Albania to Montenegro - Week 9

  • Berat, Albania: Travel Guide

    After spending 4 very pleasant days in Himare (see my blog Himare, Albania: Travel Guide ) we drove up to Berat for a one night stay. We then continued on to Kruje (see my blog Kruje, Albania: Travel Guide ). Contents Introduction Berat Castle The Moslem Mangalemi neighbourhood The Christian Gorica neighbourhood The Central Area North of the River Accommodation in Berat Links to My Other Blogs on Albania 1. Introduction Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site like Gjirokaster, but fortunately much more interesting. I found Gjirokaster very disappointing as detailed in my blog Gjirokaster, Albania: Nothing Special! . We certainly felt that Berat deserved a 1 night stop over. It takes about half a day to see the main sights in Berat. These are: Berat's huge inhabited castle. The Moslem Mangalemi neighbourhood. The Christian Gorica neighbourhood. Berat's central area north of the Usumi River with the King's Mosque, Leaden Mosque and the Boulevard Republika with its cafes and restaurants. 2. Berat Castle We walked up the steep cobbled street called Mihal Komneno to reach Berat Castle entrance. Locals drive up but we wanted some exercise. I also try to avoid driving in historic centres if possible as the driving can get very hairy. Berat Castle is always open as there are inhabited dwellings within the castle walls. We didn't pay an entrance fee as we got there after 18.00 as it had been raining heavily in the afternoon. The castle's website indicates there is an entrance fee of 300 Lek (Eur3) between 09.00 to 16.00 from Tuesday to Saturday and between 09.00 to 14.00 on a Sunday. The other 2 castles (Gjirokaster & Palermo) that we visited in Albania weren't very ancient and only dated back to the early 1800's. Berat castle is old with many structures dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries. It was much more interesting than the other 2 castles. Berat Castle covers a huge area and consists of walls, fortifications, streets, mosques and churches. You need a minimum of an hour to see the castle and if you explore it fully it could take up to 2 hours. There are several signs throughout the site suggesting routes to follow and providing information on the structures. There are some small restaurants within the castle walls near the entrance. The Bradt guide book recommends the Klea and the Onufri restaurants. 3. The Moslem Mangalemi neighbourhood It is the Mangalemi neighbourhood that gave Berat its nickname of the City of a Thousand Windows. It is best viewed in the evening from the bridge over to Gorica or from Gorica's riverside. It is very atmospheric during the evening call to prayer and you don't feel that you are in Europe. Shops and restaurants line the north side of the road that follows the riverbank. Unfortunately the road is busy and it isn't a particularly special walk. However, it is worth walking a short way to the Gorica Bridge that was built in 1780. It is a beautiful stone bridge that crosses over to the Christian Gorica neighbourhood of Berat. 4. The Christian Gorica neighbourhood It is very pleasant wandering around the old streets of Gorica and there is very little traffic. It is mainly a quiet residential area and there aren't many shops or restaurants. 5. Berat's Central Area North of the River The area to the east of the Bachelors's Mosque in Mangalemi is flat and runs south eastwards along the river Osumi. There are some historical buildings to see like the King's Mosque and the Leaden Mosque. Boulevard Republika is the liveliest street in Berat and is lined with cafes and restaurants on the northern side. It's a good place to eat with plenty of opportunity to people watch. 6. Accommodation in Berat We stayed in a fantastic 3 bedroom luxury penthouse apartment in Berat for only Eur 45 per night. It can be booked through Booking.com . Details of the apartment are on my blog titled UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 . It is number 8 on this blog. 7. Links to My Other Blogs on Albania Kruje, Albania: Travel Guide Himare, Albania: Travel Guide Gjirokaster, Albania: Nothing Special! Driving through Albania: From Greece to Montenegro The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8 Albania to Montenegro - Week 9

  • Rab, Croatia: Travel Guide

    We really liked Rab Town and the beaches on the island were good. However, there was too much sporadic development in the countryside along the main roads and it spoiled the view when driving around. Rab seems to be a very compact island and was a bit too busy. That might be because it is so close to the mainland. Contents Rab Town Beaches on Rab Island Ferries to Rab Island Accommodation in Rab Town Restaurants in Rab Town Links to My Other Blogs on Croatia 1. Rab Town 1.1. What to See in Rab Town Rab Town was one of the nicest towns that we visited in Croatia. It is also one of the easiest to find your way around as there are 4 main streets running parallel to one another from west to east. Rab Town is entered from the main square (Trg Svetog Kristofora) which is on the north west side of Rab Town. It is a busy square next to the harbour and has a good view of Zidines's Fortress. The first main street, which runs along the harbour, is surprisingly not that pleasant and there is little to see. The next 2 main streets (Donja Ulica and Srednja Ulica) run closely parallel to each other along the middle of Rab Town. Most of the shops and restaurants are on these 2 streets. The fourth main street runs through the upper part of Rab Town and there are 4 churches and bell towers along it. There is a fee to enter the Great Bell Tower. At the western end of the upper street you can climb steps to a short section of Rab Town's walls. There are good views of the old town with its 4 churches and also of the harbour. At this western end of the upper street you can enter the large and wooded Komrcar park. It is a nice walk along the most southern path as there are good sea views over to the Frkanj Peninsular and also of the city walls. 1.2. Parking in Rab Town We always parked at " U.O. Marina (Parking) " about a 10 minute walk from the centre of Rab Town. It is a large car park with an attendant. The charge is Eur 1.50 per hour and you pay the attendant when entering. In the early evening there was plenty of space but by 20.00 it was becoming full. 2. Beaches on Rab Island 2.1 Frkanj Peninsula near Rab Town The Frkanj Peninsular is an undeveloped and wooded peninsula less than a 15 minute drive from Rab Town. Most of the coastline is rocky, although there are some sandy areas. We went twice and parked at Žal Beach Bar & Kitchen for a fee of Eur 4. Water taxis from Rab Town also dock near here. Sunloungers and umbrellas are available, but most people don't use them and find a shady spot along the rocky coast. It is best to arrive before 10.30 to 11.00 a.m. to obtain a parking place and to find a nice spot by the sea. It is a popular area and we really liked it. The restaurant gets good reviews but we didn't eat there. 2.2 Paradise Beach at San Marino Paradise Beach is in the Lopar Peninsular, which unusually for Croatia has a sandy coastline. It is a 20 minute drive to this beach from Rab Town. Paradise beach is a huge beach in a very shallow and sandy bay. It was far too shallow for us as even after walking 100 metres into the sea the water was only up to our knees. It is therefore a beach which is popular with families and has attractions like water slides in the bay. If you have children this beach is probably very nice. For us the sea was too shallow, there were too many people and it was too commercialised. We much preferred the Frkanj Peninsula We paid Eur 13.50 for 2 sun loungers and an umbrella. All day parking was Eur 7.00. Toilets cost Eur 1 with the first visit free if you rent sun loungers. There are smaller and uncommercialised sandy beaches in the north of the Lopar Peninsula. They would have probably suited us better. 3. Ferries to Rab Island 3.1. The Ferry from Jablanac to Misnjak on Rab Island Rapska Plovidba run hourly ferries from Jablanac on the mainland to Misnjak on Rab Island. You can't buy tickets in advance and must buy them at a booth at the dock. They accept credit cards and it cost us Eur 25.50 for the short ferry ride. It is a busy ferry and in peak season there may not be space on the ferry if you arrive near the departure time. The ferry carries about 100 vehicles. 3.2. The Ferry from Lopar on Rab Island to Valbiska on Krk Island There is a car ferry that goes between Lopar, at the northern end of Rab Island, to Valbiska on Krk Island. Krk island is connected to the mainland by a bridge. See my blogs Krk Town, Croatia: Travel Guide and Rab, Croatia: Travel Guide . We felt that this was a nicer way of travelling to Rovinj in northern Croatia (see my blog Rovinj & Pula, Croatia: Travel Guide ) than taking the short Jablanac to Misnjak ferry crossing back to the mainland. The travel time was about the same for each route, but the longer ferry ride to Krk island appealed to us as it would be more relaxing. In the summer season there are 4 ferries a day and the times and cost are detailed on croatiaferries.com . We paid Eur 43.93 for the 1 hour 20 minute ferry ride which is operated by the state owned Jadrolinija. The ferry takes about 100 vehicles and when we went all the waiting vehicles boarded the ferry. However, in July and August it is probably best to get there half an hour before boarding time. There is a ticket booth at the dock and credit cards were accepted. 4. Accommodation in Rab Town We had to leave the 2 bedroom apartment that we booked near Rab Town as we had a very noisy family above us. Luckily we were given a refund. If there hadn't been a problem with noise it would have been very nice and it only cost Eur 71 per night through Booking.com . We were then fortunate to find another even nicer 2 bedroom apartment 2 kms away from Rab Town as there had been a cancellation. We paid Eur 117 per night through Booking.com but the price had been reduced due to the cancellation. My reviews of both apartments are on my blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 " (numbers 12 and 13). 5. Restaurants in Rab Town We ate at the Sanpjer restaurant in Rab Town every evening as we liked the food and it was good value. It has very good reviews and is very popular as a result. Usually there are queues and it is better to get there before 18.30. 6. Links to My Other Blogs on Croatia Hvar Island, Croatia: Travel Guide Rovinj & Pula, Croatia: Travel Guide Split, Croatia: Travel Guide Trogir, Croatia: Travel Guide Omis, Croatia: Travel Guide Krk Town, Croatia: Travel Guide Brac, Croatia: Travel Guide Montenegro to Croatia- Week 10 Brac to Rab, Croatia - Week 11 Rab to Dolomites, Italy - Week 12

  • Brac, Croatia: Travel Guide

    We took a car ferry from Split to Supetar on Brac after staying 4 nights in Trogir (see my blogs Split, Croatia: Travel Guide and Trogir, Croatia: Travel Guide ). We then stayed 4 nights on Brac Island and during our stay took a passenger ferry over to Hvar Island for the day (see my blog Hvar Island, Croatia: Travel Guide ). Content Supetar Day Trip to Sutivan, Lozisca, Vidova Gora and Skrip Bol and Zlatni Rat Beach Ferries from Brac to Split, Hvar & Dubrovnik Accommodation in Supetar My Other Blogs on Croatia 1. Supetar on Brac Island Supetar is the port and main town of Brac. Supetar has a small historic centre around the harbour with lots of restaurants on the waterfront. To the east of the harbour is the port and to the west there is a seafront promenade. When the seafront promenade ends a coastline path continues westwards to some hotels and beaches. The beaches aren't very special. On the hill above Supetar's port, and by the large roundabout, is a shopping centre with 2 good supermarkets (Lidls and Tommy). There are 2 small supermarkets in Supetar's historic centre but the selection is limited. 2. Day Trip to Sutivan, Lozisca, Vidova Gora and Skrip We drove the short distance from Supetar to Sutivan and parked at a free car park at the entrance to Sutivan. We really liked the small town of Sutivan as it is unspoilt and classy. It had reasonable beaches at each end of the small town, with toilets at the eastern beach. There is limited parking at Lozica, just before the traffic light in the centre of the village when driving from Sutivan. There isn't much to see apart from a very fancy bell tower and that can be better appreciated from a distance. We drove on to the 778 metres high peak of Vidova Gora, which is the highest point on any Adriatic island. There is a free car park below the peak and there are good views. It is even better if you walk for 10 minutes from the car park to the peak of Vidova Gora. There are excellent views over to Hvar island and Zlatni Rat beach at Bol. We drove back to Supetar via Skrip, which is the oldest continually inhabited settlement on Brac. The Rough Guide book describes Skrip as a " sleepy nest of stone houses with heavy stone roof tiles ". It sounded very nice but the reality was that Skrip wasn't very special! Skrip does have a few nice stone buildings but there aren't enough of them to make an impact. The village is also very spread out and there are newer buildings that spoil its appearance. 3. Bol and Zlatni Rat Beach I was concerned that parking at Bol would be very expensive as reviewers were complaining they were charged Eur 5 per hour or Eur 20 for the day. However, this charge is for the main car park for the Zlatni Rat beach on the west side of Bol. We parked in a wooded car park off the left of the main road just before reaching the waterfront. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to be marked on Google maps. It is then a 10 minute walk to the eastern end of Bol's old town and a 15 minute walk to Zlatni Rat. We were charged Eur 2 per hour for parking. The centre of Bol is small and mainly consists of 2 streets running parallel to the seafront promenade and harbour. It is pleasant strolling around but it only takes about 30 minutes to see everything. Ferries to Hvar and Dubrovnik depart from Bol's eastern pier. From Bol it is a very pleasant walk along a wide and wooded seafront promenade to Zlatni Rat. The promenade is lined with hotels, restaurants and cafes. Zlatni Rat is Croatia's most famous beach, probably because of its shape as it juts out on a cape with fine shingle beaches on either side. It wasn't too crowded when we were there but that was late June. 4. Ferries from Brac to Split, Hvar & Dubrovnik Ferries between Brac and Split The only car ferry that goes from Brac is a Jadrolinija ferry that sails about every 1.5 hours between Split and Supetar on Brac island. Tickets for the ferry can be purchased on Jadrolinija's website . It cost us Eur 33 for our car and 2 passengers. The ticket is valid for the day selected and not for a specific sailing. There are several negative Tripadvisor reviews about the signage to Split's ferry terminal and also the signage to the piers at Split's ferry terminal. However, we found that the signs were very good. If you enter " Ferry Port of Split " on Google maps it will almost get you to the correct pier. Vehicles park in lanes at the pier when waiting for the Split to Supetar ferry. Vehicles board on a first come first served basis. We arrived 1.5 hours ahead of the departure time and were 12th in the queue. There are toilets in the nearby terminal building. We were directed to park our car on the main deck of the ferry and it was very straightforward driving on to the ferry at Split and driving off at Supetar. However, we saw cars driving down the ramp to the lower deck and it was extremely narrow. I was very pleased not to have to do it. The morning before we took the ferry from Supetar to Split there was terrible traffic congestion in Supetar. We were informed it was due to vehicles queuing to board the ferry and that it was even worse in the peak season. As a result we took an early ferry (07.45) the next day to avoid this issue. We arrived at Supetar's port at 07.15 and boarded the ferry without problems. Ferries between Milna, Brac and Hvar Town/Korcula/Dubrovnik There is a daily passenger catamaran that departs from Milna on Brac Island to Hvar Town, Korcula and Dubrovnik. It departs Milna at 09.50 each day and arrives back at 19.50. We took this catamaran from Milna to Hvar Town for a day trip and it arrived at Hvar Town at 10.30 and returned at 19.00. This gave us plenty of time to see both Hvar Town and Stari Grad. See my blog " Hvar Island, Croatia " for details. The tickets for the catamaran cost Eur 15 each way and can be purchased online from TP Line . Tickets can also be bought when boarding the ferry, if there is space. We parked our car at a large car park near the entrance to Milna. There is a ticket machine there and it costs Eur 1 per hour. There is a daily maximum charge but the machine didn't state what the maximum was so we paid for 11 hours. A local guy told us that no one checks for payment at the car park but we didn't want to risk it. It is then a 15 minute walk to where the ferry docks on the northern side of Milna's harbour. Enter " TP Line catamaran ferry terminal " on Google maps. Other Ferries to and from Brac Island KL operates high speed ferries on 2 routes that stop on the island of Brac: Brač (Milna) – Hvar – Korčula – Mljet (Pomena) – Dubrovnik Brač (Bol) – Makarska – Korčula – Pomena(Mljet) – Dubrovnik 5. Accommodation in Supetar, Brac We stayed in a 1 bedroom apartment in Supetar for Eur 73 per night. There is also a 2 bedroom apartment available. Both apartments are in separate detached buildings and can be booked through Booking.com . I have reviewed them on my blog " UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 2 " (number 12). 6. My Other Blogs on Croatia Hvar Island, Croatia: Travel Guide Rovinj & Pula, Croatia: Travel Guide Split, Croatia: Travel Guide Trogir, Croatia: Travel Guide Omis, Croatia: Travel Guide Krk Town, Croatia: Travel Guide Rab, Croatia: Travel Guide Montenegro to Croatia- Week 10 Brac to Rab, Croatia - Week 11 Rab to Dolomites, Italy - Week 12

  • Krk Town, Croatia: Travel Guide

    We visited Krk Town on our way from Rab to Rovinj (see my blogs Rab to Dolomites, Italy - Week 12 , Rovinj & Pula, Croatia: Travel Guide and Rab, Croatia: Travel Guide ) . We took the ferry from the town of Lopar on Rab Island to the town of Valbiska on Krk island. It was a short drive from Valbiska to Krk Town. We parked to the west of Krk Town at " Parkiraliste 1 . zona" on Kvarnerska Ulica " and it was a 10 minute walk to the historic centre of Krk Town. The parking cost Eur 1 per hour. There were other car parks nearby if this one is full. Krk Town is dominated by the Frankopan Castle and the bell tower of St Quirinus' Church. The tall bell tower has a striking onion dome with a trumpet blowing angel on top. There is a Eur 4 entrance fee for Frankopan castle. Most Google reviews say that it only takes 15 to 20 minutes to look around and the views from the walls are the main feature. You can see the interior of the castle for free as the ticket office is in the courtyard. We didn't think it was worth paying to look around. We enjoyed wandering through most of the streets in Krk's old town and it took us just over an hour. It was definitely worth stopping to see Krk Town. My Other Blogs on Croatia Hvar Island, Croatia: Travel Guide Rovinj & Pula, Croatia: Travel Guide Split, Croatia: Travel Guide Trogir, Croatia: Travel Guide Omis, Croatia: Travel Guide Brac, Croatia: Travel Guide Rab, Croatia: Travel Guide Montenegro to Croatia- Week 10 Brac to Rab, Croatia - Week 11 Rab to Dolomites, Italy - Week 12

  • Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide

    We visited Epidaurus while staying in Nafplio ( see my blog Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide ) as it is only a 30 minute drive from there. Contents Opening Hours Best Time to visit Epidaurus Tickets Getting there, Parking and Toilets A Brief History of Epidaurus What to See My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Opening Hours for Epidaurus Winter From November to February: 08:00-17:00 March: 08:00-18:00 Summer: April : 08:00-19:00 From 02.05.2023 - 31st August 2023: 08:00 - 20:00 1st September - 15th September: 08:00 - 19:30 16th September - 30th September: 08:00 - 19:00 1st October - 15th October: 08:00 - 18:30 16th October - 31st October: 08:00 - 18:00 Good Friday: 12.00 - 17.00 Holy Saturday: 08.30 - 15.30 Holidays 1 January 25 March 1 May Easter Sunday 25 December 26 December 2. Best Time to visit Epidaurus We arrived at 08.30 and virtually had the Epidaurus to ourselves. The first tour group arrived at 09.15 and others soon followed! It is best to arrive early or late to avoid the tour groups and the heat in summer. However, in summertime they have evening shows and they start preparing the theatre in the late afternoon. That isn't good for photos. If you arrive at the start of the day see the theatre first before it becomes crowded. Conversely if you visit later leave visiting the theatre until the end so more people will have left the site. We took our time and spent 2 hours at Epidaurus to justify the high entrance fee! You could certainly see everything in 1.5 hours. 3. Tickets for Epidaurus Tickets for Epidaurus cost Eur 12 from April to October and Eur 6 from November to March. Admission is free for children up to the age of 5, under 25's and students. The latter 2 categories must provide documentary proof that they reside in the EU. Admission is free on the following days: 6 March 18 April 18 May The last weekend of September 28 October Every first Sunday from November 1st to March 31st 4. Getting there, Parking and Toilets Epidaurus is a 30 minute drive from Nafplio through pretty rural countryside. There is plenty of free parking and there are free toilets near the entrance gate. 5. A Brief History of Epidaurus According to ancient Greek mythology, Epidaurus was the birthplace of Asklepios, the healing god and son of Apollo. Epidaurus was the most popular healing center in antiquity. In the sanctuary, there was a temple, dormitories and baths to help patients recover from various diseases. Epidaurus's heyday was in the fourth and third centuries BC. The main monuments date back to the 4th century BC. In 395 AD the site was sacked by the Goths and 30 years later it was closed by Emperor Theodosius II as it was a pagan sanctuary. 6. What to See at Epidaurus 6.1. The Theatre The Theatre is the main attraction at Epidaurus and it is spectacular. It was built in 340 BC and is the best preserved theatre in Greece. It has a capacity of about 14,000 spectators. It is famous for its remarkable acoustics which allows voices to be heard from the stage all the way to the last row. All groups, and a lot of individual visitors, try to demonstrate the acoustics. They either drop a pebble on the stone in the centre of the stage, clap or sing! It is entertaining, although in peak season the guards stop people singing. 6.2. The Propylon The Propylon is the outer monumental gateway to Epidaurus's Gymnasium. 6.3. The Temple of Asklepios The temple of Asklepios was built in the early 4th century BC. 6.4. The Abaton The Abaton is a 2 level structure and you can enter the lower part of the building. Patients would sleep here awaiting a visitation from the healing god, which was believed to be a serpent. Harmless snakes were released at night for this purpose. 6.5. The Stadium The stadium was constructed in the 5th century B.C. to host the nude athletic games! These games were hosted every four years to honor Asklepius, the god of healing. The participants and spectators were mainly pilgrims at the sanctuary. 6.6. The Museum The entrance ticket for Epidaurus's main site includes entry to the small and interesting museum. 7. My Other Blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

  • Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide

    Contents Introduction Opening Hours Tickets What to See My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Introduction I researched the history of Tiryns and there is a lot of conflicting information. It seems that the impressive fortifications were built in the 13th century BC to protect the palace complex. The palace was destroyed and only the ruins remain. Tiryns was one of the most important centers of the Mycenaean world. If you stay in Nafplio it is only a 7 minute drive to Tiryns. It is on the way to Mycenae (see my blog Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide ) so you can combine the 2 sites. There is plenty of free parking and toilets before you enter the site. Tiryns isn't visited by tour groups so there are very few visitors. Although the walls are very impressive there isn't much else to see. However, the entry fee is only Eur 4 in summer. We visited on one of the 6 free admission days - see the section on tickets . It takes about 30 minutes to see Tiryns' archaeological site. 2. Opening Hours at Tiryns Winter & Summer: 08:30-15.30 Good Friday: 12.00-17.00 Holy Saturday: 08:30-15:30 Closed on the following holidays: 1 January 25 March 1 May Easter Sunday 25 December 26 December 3. Tickets for Tiryns Tickets cost Eur 4 from April to October and Eur 2 from November to March. Admission is free for children up to the age of 5, under 25's and students. The latter 2 categories must provide documentary proof that they reside in the EU. Admission is free on the following days: 6 March 18 April 18 May The last weekend of September. 28 October Every first Sunday from November 1st to March 31st. 4. What to See at Tiryns From Tiryns' entrance there is an ancient ramp that was built wide enough for chariots. The remains of impressive fortified walls are on either side. The ramp leads to a large area with the remains of the palace. The remains are no higher than about 1 metre. From the palace you can descend to the other side of the site to admire the high fortified walls. You can return to the entrance along these walls. 5. My Other Blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

  • Mystras, Greece: Travel Guide

    We stopped off to visit Mystras on our drive from Nafplio to Monemvasia. See my blogs Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide and Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide . Contents Brief History of Mystras Parking and Toilets Opening Hours Tickets Finding your Way around Mystras What to See My Other Blogs on Greece 1. Brief History of Mystras Mystras was founded in the 13th century by the Franks who established a fortress on top of the hill. They were expelled from the Peloponnese in 1262 by the Byzantine Emperor who incorporated Mystras into the Byzantine Empire. Mystras soon became a thriving centre of art, culture and intellectual pursuits. Magnificent palaces, churches and monasteries were constructed, including the Palace of the Despots, the Church of Agios Demetrios and the Pantanassa Monastery In 1460, the Ottomans captured Mystras, marking the end of Byzantine rule in the Peloponnese. They occupied Mystras until 1821, except for a short period of Venetian control from 1687 to 1715. In 1770 Mystras joined a Peloponnese uprising against the Ottomans. It was suppressed by the Ottoman Albanians and Mystras was left in ruins. The final blow for Mystras came in 1823 when the Egyptians, who were aiding the Ottomans during the Greek War of Independence, massacred the local population and destroyed the town. In 1831 the town was rebuilt 9 km away and named Sparti. 2. Parking & Toilets at Mystras There is parking along the road at both the lower and upper entrances at Mystras. There are only toilets at the lower entrance gate. 3. Opening Hours at Mystras Winter: 08:30-15:30 Summer: 01/04-31/08: 08:00-20:00 01-15/09: 08:00-19:30 16-30/09: 08:00-19:00 01-15/10: 08:00-18:30 16-31/10: 08:00-18:00 Holidays 1 January 25 March 1 May Easter Sunday 25 December 26 December 4. Tickets for Mystras Cost Tickets cost Eur 12. Free Admission There is free admission for children up to the age of 5, under 25's and students. The latter 2 categories must provide documentary proof that they reside in the EU. Admission is free for everyone on the following days: 6 March 18 April 18 May The last weekend of September 28 October Every first Sunday from November 1st to March 31st Reduced Admission From 1st of April to 31st of October the admission cost is reduced by 50% for: Senior citizens over 65 with documentary proof of residence in EU member-states and the European Economic Area. Young people, between the ages of 6 and 25 years, who are from non-European Union countries. Documentary proof of age must be provided. 5. Finding your Way around Mystras You can start at either the lower or upper entrance of Mystras and it is best to follow a circular route. Some people struggle with the paths which are rocky and steep in places. It is worse in the summer heat. Some visitors therefore park at the lower gate to see the lower site and then drive up to the upper gate to see the remainder of Mystras, or vice versa. Tickets are valid at both entrances. People with mobility issues often skip seeing the citadel. Tour groups usually start at the upper site and walk down to the lower site where they are met by their tour bus. Good shoes are advisable. It is a good idea to bring a site map and water in the summer. 6. What to See at Mystras It is really worth visiting Mystras and the site can be seen in about 3 hours. The surviving buildings are mainly churches and monasteries. There is also a castle and a large palace that has been closed for renovations for over 20 years. All the other buildings are in ruins. Metropolis of Mystras The Metropolis of Mystras is located near the lower entrance and it dates back to the late 13th century. There is a museum that exhibits sculptures, holy icons, byzantine objects and fragments from some of the other churches. Peribleptos Monastery This Byzantine church is slightly off the main circuit for Mystras and as a result it doesn't attract many visitors. It has some very attractive frescoes and is well worth seeing. Church of Agios Dimitrios This church was built in 1292 and it is the oldest church in Mystras. The Pantanassa Monastery The nuns at Pantanassa monastery are the only remaining residents of Mystras. The other residents were moved out in 1952. The church was built in 1428 and is the finest surviving church in Mystras. It has some excellent frescoes. The Despots' Palace The Despot's Palace is the main surviving building in Mystras and it was built in the late 14th century. It has now been closed for renovation for at least 20 years. The 2004 edition of the Rough Guide stated that it was " currently closed for extensive rebuilding and restoration that looks set to continue for a number of years ahead ". I doubt they thought it would be closed for quite so long! It should be the main attraction at Mystras once it is reopened. Church of Agia Sophia Agia Sophia Church was built in the mid-14th century. The Ottomans used it as a mosque. Mystras Castle You can wander around the ruins of Mystras Castle and there are good views. Church of Agioi Theodoroi The Church of Agioi Theodoroi is the oldest and largest chapel in Mystras. The church was constructed between 1290 and 1295. Church of the Hodegetria The 14th century Church of the Hodegetria was part of the Brontochion Monastery. During the Ottoman period it was converted into a mosque. 7. My Other Blogs on Greece Monemvasia, Greece: Travel Guide Mycenae, Greece: Travel Guide Tiryns, Greece: Travel Guide Epidaurus, Greece: Travel Guide Nafplio, Greece: Travel Guide Corinth, Greece: Travel Guide Delphi, Greece: Travel Guide The Monasteries of Meteora: Travel Guide Naxos, Greece: Travel Guide Tinos, Greece: Travel Guide Syros, Greece: Travel Guide Andros, Greece: Travel Guide North Macedonia to Greece - Week 4 Nafplio, Greece to the Peloponnese - Week 5 Peloponnese to the Greek Islands - Week 6 The Greek Islands - Week 7 The Greek Islands to Albania - Week 8

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