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Contents
1. Introduction
2. Skopje
3. Tetovo
1. Introduction
We stopped for 3 nights in Tetovo during our road trip from the UK to Greece and visited Skopje as a day trip. See my blog Serbia to North Macedonia - Week 3 for our daily trip report. We stayed in Tetovo as we found a good apartment at a very reasonable price. With the benefit of hindsight I wish that we had stayed in Skopje instead.
2. Skopje
2.1. Parking in Skopje
We parked at the Shopping Centre Vero on the south side of the river. It is a short walk along the riverside to the centre of Skopje.
We visited Skopje on a Sunday and so the parking was free. You have to pay most days but the charges are reasonable.
It is a large car park below the shopping centre and there was a security guard. There is a good supermarket on the upper floor of the shopping centre as well as free toilets.
There is parking at Kale Fortress in Skopje but reviews mentioned that vehicles had been broken into.
2.2. Skopje's New City Centre
I was very impressed with the new area of Skopje that runs along both banks of the River Vardar. It is a spacious area, with well designed buildings, and there are huge statues, monuments and fountains everywhere.
This area was renovated by the Skopje 2014 project. Some critics believe that it is like Disneyland and want the monuments and statues removed. I must really like Disneyland!
Makedonija's Square is the focal point of the area on the south side of the river. In the middle of the square there is a huge statue of a Warrior on a Horse. The warrior is Alexandra the Great. There are numerous restaurants and cafes around the square.
To the north of Makedonija's Square the ancient Stone Bridge crosses the river to the historic centre of Skopje on the north bank.
Just north of Stone Bridge is a plaza with an impressive monument to Philip II of Macedonia, Alexander the Great's father. In the plaza there is the Fountain of the Mothers of Macedonia and 3 other fountains. There is a beautiful water and light show at night.
There is an esplanade to the west of Stone Bridge that runs 6 kilometres along the south bank of the river. It is a good place to walk and at night the path is lit. There is even a beach on the river at City Park.
2.3. Old Skopje
We had difficulty locating several of the historic sites in old Skopje, despite the many signs. Eventually we found them but it was tiring and frustrating as it was hot.
We wandered around the pedestrianised streets and alleys of the Old Bazaar area. It is atmospheric but most of the shops are geared for tourism. There were a lot of tourists, and some tour groups, despite it only being late April.
We visited 4 main sites in old Skopje:
The Cifte Amam National Art Gallery
In my opinion it is the most impressive building in Skopje. It used to be a hamman (Turkish bath house) but is now an art gallery. We didn't go in but admired the exterior from the plaza on the south eastern side of the building.
The Church of Sveti Spas
The exterior of this Ottoman era church is unimposing. It was built partly below ground level since the church's bell tower couldn't be taller than a mosque.
It is famous for its intricately carved wooden iconostasis. This is a screen of icons and religious paintings separating the nave from the main part of the church. It was made in the early 1800's. There is an entry fee of Eur1.
Mustafa Pasha Mosque
This is the largest mosque in Skopje and was built in 1492. We had a quick look inside just before prayers commenced.
The Kale Fortress
Entrance to the Kale fortress is free as the 10th century fort is very neglected. You can walk along the walls which give good views over the city and river. There is nothing else to see as only the fortress walls and towers are still standing. The entrance is at the north east side of the fortress.
3. Tetovo
Tetovo is a lively town with few tourists but there isn't a lot to see. The main things to see are:
3.1. Tetovo's Central Shopping Area
Tetovo's main street is Boulevard Illyria (also called Marshall Tito). It runs from Illyria Square to the Palma Shopping Mall which has a large supermarket.
Boulevard Illyria is very vibrant, lined with shops and restaurants for locals rather than tourists. Northeast of the junction with Blagoja Toska street is the large indoor Green Market.
Running south from Illyria Square is Ilindenska street, another major shopping street. The Serena Dzamija Mosque and the hamman are on this street. There are a couple of shops selling small barbequed chickens for Eur 5 which is something we enjoy!
3.2. The Sarena Dzamija Mosque
This small and colourful 16th century mosque is the prettiest building in Tetovo. Both the interior and exterior are stunning. It is in the centre of Tetovo on the river Pena.
3.3. The Hamman (Turkish Bathhouse) at Tetovo
It is a beautiful 15th century building in a very scenic spot in the centre of Tetovo. It is across the river from the Sarena Dzamija mosque. It now houses an art gallery.
3.4. Arabati Baba Bektasi Teke
The Bradt guide book says this is "one of the prettiest sites in town" although it is "in considerable disrepair". Their first statement is wrong and misleading!
The place is a mess and there is nothing worthwhile to see. Don't waste your time going there.
4. An Excursion to Popova Sapka
Popova Sapka is a ski resort a 20 kilometre drive from Tetovo. It is 1,800 metres above sea level. It is a scenic drive up on a good road but sadly the road side was strewn with litter.
The Bradt guide mentions that "parking is at a premium". We were the only visitors in late April so parking wasn't a problem. It must be a lot busier in the summer months as it makes a good day outing for locals from Tetovo and even Skopje. There are hotels at the ski resort.
In the summer time a number of hikes are possible. There was a hiking signpost at the ski resort (see the photo) but we didn't see any route signage.
Hiking maps for the area can only be bought in North Macedonia. It is therefore difficult to plan a hike from abroad. Besides we knew that there might be too much snow around in late April so we didn't come prepared to hike.
As we couldn't get a good view of the mountains from the ski resort we walked half an hour up a nearby hill.
5. Accommodation in Tetovo
We booked a spacious 1 bedroom apartment in the centre of Tetovo through Airbnb. It cost Euro 112 for 3 nights plus Euro 20 for underground parking. I reviewed this apartment on my blog "UK to Greek Islands Accommodation - Part 1" (number 10).
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