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This blog provides information on the new permit rules that were introduced in 2003, the selection of trekking agencies and the hiring of guides and porters. Click here to read my other blogs about the Everest Base Camp and Everest 3 Passes treks.
Contents
1. TIMS Cards
The Nepal Tourist Board had announced that the provisions of the Trekker Information Management System (TIMS) were changing effective 1 April 2023.
Prior to 1st April 2023 trekkers could buy their own TIMS Card for NPR 1,000 and trek without a guide. From 1st April 2023 the new announcement meant that only trekking agencies would be able to obtain the TIMS cards for trekkers, at the increased cost of NPR 2,000, and all trekkers had to be accompanied by a guide.
There is a Tripadvisor forum topic on this subject. It has up to date information from trekkers about any enforcement of the Tourist Board's edict about guides.
The reality is that it isn't being enforced and you can continue to trek without a guide except in restricted areas like before. The only difference is that independent trekkers can't buy a TIMs card. However, independent trekkers are no longer being required to have one.
The Everest Base Camp trek is not in a restricted area but you need to buy 2 permits whilst trekking:
The Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit costs NPR 2,000 and is bought at Lukla airport.
The Sagarmatha National Conservation Area Permit costs NPR 3,000 and is bought in Monjo.
2. Nepalese Trekking Agencies
There are numerous trekking agencies in Nepal and some of them are very good and others aren't! Some trekking agencies only sell packages that include food and accommodation.
This enables trekking agencies to make higher profits as it is difficult for trekkers to ascertain the actual costs. It can also benefit the guides as they are given a lump sum to cover costs and anything left over is theirs to keep!
Good agencies will always give enough to cover all potential costs. Bad agencies will give the minimum, which can cause a problem for the trekker towards the end of a trek.
The accommodation provided will usually be for a basic room. If you want a room with an attached bathroom you will normally have to pay the difference to the guide.
If you do take an all inclusive package it is important to determine beforehand what food and drink is included. For example: Can you have a starter and a main course? How many hot drinks per day are included?
A far better approach is to only pay the trekking agency for the cost of porters, guides and transportation. The cost of the porters and guides should always include their food and lodging. Porters and guides can be hired through agencies from about $20 a day for a porter and $25 a day for a guide.
The guide will often travel with you from Kathmandu and their airfare will be extra. Their airfare is far less than for a foreigner. Porters will usually join trekkers in Lukla and any transportation costs for them is for your account. Be aware that porter guides probably won't speak English very well.
Some local trekking agencies will want a deposit for the trek. The deposit shouldn't be more than the cost of the flights. Don't pay more than necessary
If you want to organise your own trek I can recommend 3 local trekking agencies:
Enjoy Nepal Treks. I used them in 2023 for the Kanchenjunga and the Langtang/ Gosainkunda/Helambu treks. I paid $25 a day for a porter/guide but the cost has now increased to $30 a day. I paid for my own food and accommodation but they also offer all inclusive packages. They are an excellent agency.
Nepal Sanctuary Treks. They are the local agents for The Mountain Company and I have used them 3 times. They are not be the cheapest as their packages include food and accommodation. However, they will be substantially cheaper than a foreign trekking company.
Visit Himalaya Treks. I have never used them but recently met one of their small groups on the way to Makalu Base Camp. I have also read the blogs of 2 frequent trekkers to Nepal who highly recommend them. Again they are not be the cheapest as their packages include food and accommodation. However, they will be substantially cheaper than a foreign trekking company.
3. Foreign Trekking Agencies
Legally foreign trekking companies have to employ a Nepalese trekking agency to organise their treks. As a result their treks are far more expensive than those of a local agency as they make a healthy profit on top of the local agency's cost. Some foreign companies send a westerner to lead treks which increases the cost even more.
I wouldn't want to trek with a group when the accommodation is in tea houses/lodges as for the Everest Base Camp trek. It is better, and cheaper, to organise one's own trek through a Nepalese agency.
I like to select my own accommodation and try to avoid busy lodges. You can't do this with a group and usually have to share a room. I have trekked twice with groups in Lower and Upper Dolpo as they were camping treks. They would have been expensive to organise for one person.
However, some people prefer to trek with a group and most foreign trekking companies offer group lodge treks to EBC, as it is one of the world's most popular treks.
I can recommend 2 foreign companies:
The Mountain Company is a British company which arranges basic and luxury lodge treks in the Everest region with Nepalese guides. It is a good company and I used them when trekking in Upper Dolpo.
Kim Bannister of Kamzang Journeys personally leads one trek a year in the Everest region. She knows the area and local people very well and she has an excellent reputation. I have never trekked with her but did briefly meet her while trekking in Lower Dolpo.
4. Hiring Guides and Porters at Lukla
You can hire guides and porters at Lukla airport and there are usually several touting for business as you exit the airport. It is safer to recruit through a local hotel in case any problems arise during the trek.
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