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Lani and I did the Everest Base Camp trek in May 2014 with a porter/guide and had fabulous weather and no crowds. We returned in May 2022 to do the more difficult Everest 3 Passes trek with a porter and a guide. Unfortunately the weather wasn't as perfect this time but the trail wasn't busy.
This blog is a daily trip report of our 19 day Everest 3 Passes trek. I have also done several other blogs providing information and advice for trekking in the Everest region. See my Everest Base Camp Trek page for details.
Contents
4 May 2022 - Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla
We were informed that the guide and driver would collect us from our hotel at 05.00 for our 06.00 flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. We were panicking as they didn't get to our hotel until 05.25! We arrived at the airport at 05.45 but didn't miss our flight as all flights to Lukla had been delayed due to bad weather!
After 3 hours at Kathmandu airport we decided to pay an extra $600 to fly by helicopter, but the weather was too bad even for that. After hours of listening to extremely loud airport announcements the tedium was broken by a bomb scare.
Someone had called from Pakistan and reported that several bombs had been planted in the domestic terminal. Everyone had to leave the building and sit in airport buses until sniffer dogs and bomb detectors had searched the building.
Shortly after being allowed back into the terminal it was announced that our flight was boarding. By 13.10 we had landed in Lukla, which they boast is the world's most dangerous airport! I was very pleased we hadn't paid the extra $600 for a helicopter.
We had lunch at Lukla and then hiked 4 hours to the small village of Bengkar. The new and best lodge had 4 other trekkers in so we stayed in a more basic tea house that had more character and no other guests.
5 May 2022 - Bengkar to Namche Bazaar
We left our tea house at Bengkar at 07.50 and arrived at Namche Bazaar 4 hours later, after climbing 800 metres in fairly nice sunny conditions. Namche is at 3,450 metres and is the largest village in the Everest region. It has everything a trekker could want!
We found a nice ensuite room with a small balcony in the upper part of Namche. The hotel association (cartel) in Namche has set the room rates and as a result rooms are expensive. We had to pay NPR 2,000 but negotiated free hot showers. It was very quiet when we arrived, but a noisy group arrived afterwards and took over the dining room.
See my blog Lodges & Tea Houses on the Everest Base Camp Trek.
6 May 2022 - Namche to Khyangjuma via Khunde & Kumjung
Namche Bazaar is at 3,450 metres and one should spend 2 nights there for acclimatisation before proceeding on the Everest Base Camp trek. For our acclimatisation day we chose to do a half day acclimatisation walk to the villages of Khunde (3,840 metres), Kumjung (3,780 metres) and Khyangjuma (3,550 metres).
Unfortunately we had woken up to cloudy weather and after walking for an hour it rained a little and got colder. As a result we didn't see the mountains at all and it was a dreary walk. This bad weather was unfortunately meant to continue for a few days.
We were lucky that there was a gathering of monks at Kumjung monastery reciting scriptures. It was atmospheric and much better than visiting the usual deserted gompas.
When we reached Khyangjuma we stayed there for the night rather than going back to Namche. Khyangjuma is only 100 metres higher than Namche and therefore at an acceptable altitude for acclimatisation. This reduced our next day's walk by 1 hour.
We stayed at a newly built lodge where all the rooms had attached bathrooms. The room cost NPR 1,000, which was half the price of our lodge at Namche.
7 May 2002 - Khyangjuma to Pangboche via Phortse
We woke up to low clouds, but by the time we left the lodge it was sunny and warm and we caught glimpses of the mountains. We had chosen to do the higher and more scenic route to Phortse. This trail isn't busy with trekkers but is longer!
We reached the top of the Mong La (4,000 metres) after 2 hours and then immediately descended steeply down to the river! As soon as we got to the river we climbed 200 metres back up again to Phortse (3,810 metres). Almost 4 hours of walking.
At Phortse we had dal bhat for lunch with its usual refills of rice, dal and vegetables. After lunch the cloud started to come in and by 15.00 we had showers and the visibility was down to about 100 metres. We were soon adding several layers over our T shirts!
Our guide said we would climb 100 metres and then walk on a plateau to Pangboche.
The bit about the plateau wasn't accurate. It turned out to be Nepali flat which entails constant ups and downs!
We reached Lower Pangboche (3,900 metres) after almost 3 hours from Phortse and Lani was very tired. We found a room with an attached bathroom for NPR 1,500. We negotiated free charging of electronics as it would otherwise cost NPR 300 per device.
8 May 2022 - Hike to Ama Dablam Base Camp
It was raining when we woke up at 06.00, but the weather had improved by the time we left for Ama Dablam base camp at 07.45.
The walk began with a 100 metre descent to the river, followed by a 800 metre ascent to Ama Dablam base camp. It took 3 hours 15 minutes to reach base camp and Lani struggled with the altitude. There are 3 lodges near base camp that cater to the mountaineers and we had dal bhat in the only lodge that was open.
It took us 1.5 hours to descend. Initially it snowed a bit, followed by light rain and then sun as we neared Pangboche. Unfortunately we didn't get any views of Ama Dablam all day!
See my blog Day Hikes on the Everest Base Camp Trek
9 May 2022 - Hike from Pangboche to Dingboche
Yesterday evening we had limited mountain views and this morning we could actually see the top of Ama Dablam!
We stayed in lower Pangboche because of altitude acclimatisation. Before setting off to Dingboche we climbed 100 metres to see the more traditional upper Pangboche. We looked around the 600 year old gompa and found out that photos weren't allowed only after taking one!
Some villagers started praying in the upper part of the Gompa and we were allowed in. It was really impressive with all the masks used for ceremonies, but again no photos were allowed.
It took us 3 hours to reach Dingboche. We were slow but some other trekkers were even slower. I was starting a cold and didn't feel well for the first part of the trek. Lani was also feeling a bit off.
There are lots of lodges in Dingboche but in 2014 we found the majority were pretty dire. This year we found the Hotel Tashi Delek, which cost NPR 1,000 for a nice corner ensuite room. We had our first showers for 3 nights (NPR 600 each). They will probably be our last showers until we reach Gokyo in 7 nights time!
We could no longer use our mobile phone data package and had to pay NPR 700 each for internet. It is amazing that we could access the internet at all.
10 May 2022 - Hike from Dingboche to Chukhung
I had a bad night because of my cold. Lani claimed she hadn't slept well either, despite hearing her sleeping soundly throughout the night! We woke up at 06.00 to the usual low clouds or mist! I felt very despondent as we have come to see the Himalayas.
We had our usual breakfast of oat porridge (now costing NPR 600) and ginger tea, and then packed up. A lot of the clouds had cleared by the time we started walking. We walked for 3 hours from Dingboche (4,400 metres) to Chukhung (4,700 metres) with fantastic views of Ama Dablam and partial views of other mountains.
It should have been an easy walk, but I struggled because of my cold. By the time we got to Chukhung I had no energy left for going around the lodges to select the best one. We went to the Khangri Resort which has the best reputation.
We thought they had attached bathrooms but none of the lodges in Chukhung do. Initially we accepted a dark downstairs corner room, but then our guide found us a really nice and bright upstairs corner room. The lodge has a bright warm sun room and we had it all to ourselves. The cost of a room is only NPR 500.
11 May 2022 - Day Hike towards Amphu Labsta Phedi
We woke up at 05.45 to clear skies and fantastic mountain views. We left the Chukhung at 07.15 to walk towards Island Peak base camp. The mountain views were incredible and I was snapping away. We hiked for 2.5 hours to get to the turnoff to Island Peak base camp.
Lani decided to return back to our lodge at this point and I continued towards to Amphu Labsta Phedi. This had been recommended on the Trip Advisor forum as a better option than Island Peak Base Camp. It involved crossing a precarious bridge and I have to admit our guide gave me a helping hand.
There were 2 fantastic lakes on either side of the trail. The first one was the large, and very grey, Imja Tsho at 5,010 metres. It is carefully monitored as the glacial moraine holding the lake back is at risk of collapse.
The second lake was Amphu Labsta Tsho which is a beautiful blue colour. We continued towards Amphu Labsta Phedi until there were no more views to be gained. It was a 6 hour round trek.
12 May 2022 - Crossing the Kongma La
My guide hadn't been over the Kongma La pass (5,535 metres) before and there is a tricky glacier crossing on the other side. We therefore arranged to team up with 3 other trekkers and their 2 guides. Lani decided to take the lower level route via Dughla with our porter. Both routes take about 8 hours.
I got up at 03.50 and had breakfast at 04.30. My guide and I then walked over to another lodge to join the other trekkers. We started walking at 05.10 in very clear weather with little wind.
We took our time with plenty of breaks to enjoy the fantastic mountain scenery. It was a relentless climb up to the top of Kongma La (5,535 metres) with the hardest part being the final very steep ascent to the top. We had lunch at the top and our small group had the summit to ourselves.
The descent was steep with very rocky and difficult terrain initially. There were a couple of small rockfalls but no one was hit. After the steep descent we reached the difficult crossing over the Khumbu glacier to reach Lobuche (4,900 metres).
None of the guides had crossed the Khumbu glacier in the last 3 years and the route constantly changes. It took 15 minutes to find the start of the route and then it was fairly straightforward. However, the terrain over the moraine was hilly and difficult.
We got to Lobouche after a hard 9 hour walk. I grabbed the last ensuite room at the New EBC Guest House. Within 20 minutes I spotted Lani and our porter outside.
There are far too many people at Lobouche and we decided not to go to Everest Base Camp as the lodges will be awful if busy. We went to Everest Base Camp in 2014 so missing Everest Base Camp isn't a problem.
13 May 2022 - Lobuche
We woke up at 05.00 to take advantage of the usual early morning clear skies. We left the lodge at 06.15 to hike a high ridge with excellent mountain views.
Lani was walking slowly as she has a cold and a bad cough, probably the Khumbu cough that is caused by the cold and dry air at high altitude.
We walked to the Pyramid, which was an Italian weather or research centre, and part of the facility is now a lodge. We had tea there and looked around the lodge.
From the Pyramid it was a steep climb up to the top of the ridge, perhaps 5,300 metres. Lani did very well to make it but struggled. The views were excellent. By 08.30 clouds were rolling up the valley and by 09.30 the mountains were obscured.
Lani needed another night in Lobouche to acclimatise before going on to Dzongla. Our guide managed to phone the lodge and persuaded them to let us keep the room, even though it was reserved!
A lot of the cloud cleared in the afternoon so I walked up the steep west side of the glacial moraine ridge that I crossed yesterday. It is about a 20 minute walk and there are good views of the mountains and the glacier from the top.
14 May 2022 - Hike from Lobouche to Dzongla
I woke at 05.30 to clear skies and good mountain views. By the time we finished breakfast low cloud or mist had obscured the mountains.
Luckily, the sun came out and the cloud cleared, about half an hour into our 3 hour walk from Lobouche to Dzongla. The scenery was superb although the path was narrow and with steep drop offs at times.
Lani was still struggling with the Khumbu cough and it was clear that she wouldn't manage the Cho La Pass tomorrow. We decided that Lani would go slowly back down to Namche with our porter, while I continued on the Everest 3 passes route with our guide. Khumbu cough only improves at lower altitude.
This meant Lani and I would be apart for 4 nights and I would have to carry what I needed.
In the evening our guide spoke to a small group that had just crossed the Cho La Pass from the west. They said that the glacial ice on the western downward side was slippery so I might have to use my microspikes.
15 May 2022 - Crossing the Cho La
It was a disappointing day of weather. We could clearly see the mountains when we set off for the Cho La pass at 05.20. However, clouds quickly rose up the valley and by 05.30 there were no views.
I found the hike up the Cho La pass to be a hard slog especially as I was carrying all my things, except my sleeping bag which was kindly carried by my guide. After a couple of hours we got to the glacier and I put on my microspikes which made walking easier.
It took about 3 hours to reach the top of Cho La (5,420 metres) and I met 3 people I knew at the top.
A cable was installed about 3 years ago to help with the initial descent down the western side of the Cho La Pass. My microspikes were still very useful as the trekker in front of me didn't have any and slipped several times.
We reached the lodges at Dragnag after walking 6 hours. I was tired and after having lunch decided to stay the night. Most other trekkers continued walking for a further 2 to 3 hours to Gokyo.
I managed to phone Lani who had reached Debouche at 3,800 metres. The lower altitude had already improved her cough, which had been very bad last night. She was staying in the new and very comfortable section of the Rivendell Lodge.
16 May 2022 - Hike from Dragnag to Gokyo
We walked from Dragnag (4,700 metres) to Gokyo (4,790 metres) and the trail was mainly over the massive Ngozumpa glacier. The new starting point for the glacier crossing was not marked and we were lucky to find it. After that the trail was well marked.
I really enjoyed crossing the Ngozumpa glacier and often observed rocks falling into the lakes in the middle of the glacier. It was a steep climb up the ridge on the other side of the Ngozumpa glacier and there was a rope in place to facilitate this.
After crossing the Ngozumpa glacier we had good views of Gokyo village and lake. There are 6 lakes in the Gokyo valley and the village is on the third lake. It took 3 hours to get to Gokyo. I checked into the Cho Oyu lodge and got a nice corner lake view room with shared toilets for NPR 500.
In the afternoon I walked to Gokyo's fourth lake with someone I met a few days ago. We intended to go onto the fifth lake but it was too far.
17 May 2022 - Hike up Gokyo Ri
I planned to walk up Gokyo Ri (5,360 metres) if the weather was clear enough. At 05.00 there was low cloud but by the time I had my usual breakfast of porridge and ginger tea at 06.30 the clouds had cleared.
I rushed up Gokyo Ri in 1.5 hours, overtaking everyone in sight trying to reach the top before the clouds came in again. Just as I got to the top most of the mountain views were obscured by clouds!
Luckily the clouds cleared after about half an hour and I stayed at the top for a further 2 hours to enjoy the views. I could see the peak of Everest for the first time on this trip.
In the afternoon I enjoyed an expensive shower costing NPR 800 followed by a solitary 1.5 hour walk to Gokyo's first and second lakes. Incidentally since Lani took our toothpaste I had to buy a foul tasting tube of toothpaste for NPR 600. I couldn't even buy soap from the only shop (shack) in Gokyo but luckily there was some in the shower stall.
18 May 2022 - Crossing the Renjo La
I had another early breakfast and we left Gokyo at 06.10 in very good weather. It took 2.5 hours to reach the top of Renjo La (5,360 metres). Renjo La is meant to be the easiest of the 3 passes, but we had been warned that there was a lot of snow on the other side.
We found that the report of the snow was true but luckily it hadn't turned to ice. After spending about an hour on the top of Renjo La enjoying the great views we put on our micro spikes/crampons and descended. Initially the trail was narrow with a big drop off on the one side.
It took us just over 2 hours to reach the small settlement of Lumde (4,368 metres) where we had lunch. The lodge had nice rooms with a squat toilet for NPR 500 so we stayed there. It was very sociable with 3 people I had met before (an Israeli, German and Kiwi). The lady running the lodge was also very pleasant.
19 May 2022 - Hike from Lumde to Namche Bazaar
We walked from Lumde to Namche Bazaar via Thame. We climbed up to the monastery at Thame so we could visit the 600 year old monastery and also to try to get a phone signal to contact Lani! After a lot of difficulty we finally managed to get through to Lani and arranged to meet her for lunch further down the trail at Thamo.
Lani had warned me that 19 Everest marathon runners had arrived at her hotel in Namche the previous night! Luckily they weren't too noisy and we had a room in a separate annexe with a little balcony. I had 2 pieces of chocolate cake to celebrate being back in civilisation!
20 May 2022 - Hike from Namche Bazaar to Phakding
We had an easy 3 hour or so walk down to Phakding and stayed in a nice lodge which had spacious rooms with attached bathrooms for NPR 1,000. There was only one other couple there.
21 May 2022 - Hike from Phakding to Lukla
We tried a different route from Phakding to Lukla. Virtually everyone uses the path on the east bank of the river, but someone on the Trip Advisor forum had recommended the west bank from Phakding to Ghat. It was a quiet and scenic route along the river. After 3.5 hours we arrived at Lukla and tried to fly out a day early without success.
See my blog Forum Posts, Vlogs & Webcams for the Everest Base Camp Trek for Tripadvisor recommendations and trip reports.
We are staying at a very nice lodge in Lukla and all the rooms have attached bathrooms for NPR 1,000. The only problem was a noisy group of 14 ladies from the Middle East staying there.
22 May 2022 - Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu
Our flight was meant to be at 06.30 but we woke up to rain. It rained all morning and we didn't think there would be any chance of flying out today. At midday we had an early lunch and were resigned to spending another night in Lukla. As we ate our lunch the weather started to clear and just as we finished we were told to quickly go to the airport.
The airport was only 5 minutes walk away and as the owner of the lodge had connections with the airlines he very kindly arranged our boarding passes for us. Just over an hour later we were back in Kathmandu!